T  S 


TEXTILE  WORLD  RECORD 
KINK  BOOKS 


UC-NRLF 


;          SB    Eflb    527 

Kinks  on  Wool 
Carding  and  Spinning 


Second  Edition 


Compiled  from  the 
QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS  DEPARTMENT 

of  the 
TEXTILE  WORLD  RECORD 


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CM 
OO 


LORD  &  NAGLE  COMPANY 

Publishers 
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••r 


THE  TEXTILE  WORLD  RECORD 
KINK  BOOKS 


Kinks  on  Wool 
Carding  and  Spinning 


Second  Edition 

Compiled  from  the 
QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS  DEPARTMENT 

of  the 
TEXTILE  WORLD  RECORD 


COMPILED  AND    EDITED    BY 

CLARENCE  MUTTON 


LORD     &    NAGJIjE     CO. 

PUBLISHERS 

BOSTON,  MASS.,  TJ.  S.  A. 


COPYRIGHT,  1912 

LORD  &  NAGLE  COMPANY 

BOSTON,  MASS. 


PREFACE 


The  success  which  attended  the  publication 
of  Kinks  for  Wool  Carders  and  Spinners,  a 
large  edition  having  been  exhausted,  has  led 
us  to  compile  this  book  of  practical  experi- 
ences in  Woolen  Yarn  Manufacturing. 

The  editors  of  the  TEXTILE  WORLD  RECORD 
are  at  all  times  face  to  face  with  the  problem 
of  securing  practical  information.  For  years 
its  subscribers  have  been  invited  to  make  free 
use  of  its  columns  in  asking  questions  relating 
to  woolen  manufacturing,  and  it  occurred  to 
us  that  if  some  of  the  most  important  and 
most  interesting  of  the  practical  questions  that 
have  been  answered  were  gathered  together  in 
a  handy  form  for  quick  reference,  it  would 
meet  a  wide-spread  want. 

This  book  contains  information  which  has 
been  supplied  by  manufacturers,  superintend- 
ents, and  overseers  from  their  private  record 
books  and  their  stores  of  knowledge  gained  by 
experience. 

Many  questions  are  answered  and  much 
information  given,  but  subscribers  should 
remember  that  if  there  is  any  information 
they  desire  which  is  not  given  in  this  volume, 


271655 


8  PREFACE 

it  is  their  privilege  to  ask  the  Questions  and 
Answers  Department  of  the  TEXTILE  WORLD 
RECORD,  and  every  effort  will  be  made  to  pub- 
lish the  information  for  them  provided  the 
question  is  one  of  general  interest  to  the  trade. 

No  effort  has  been  made  to  arrange  the 
subjects  in  the  order  of  precedence  in  manu- 
facturing, but  the  book  is  fully  indexed,  which 
should  enable  anyone  to  find  the  information 
he  seeks  in  the  shortest  possible  time. 

Grateful  acknowledgment  is  due  to  the  men 
who  have  supplied  the  information,  and  if 
Kinks  on  Wool  Carding  and  Spinning  should 
benefit  any  of  the  large  number  of  men  for 
whom  it  is  intended,  both  they  and  the  pub- 
lishers will  feel  that  its  mission  has  been 
accomplished. 

TEXTILE   WORLD    RECORD, 

LORD  &  NAGLE  COMPANY, 

Publishers. 


Kinks   on   Wool  Carding 
and  Spinning 

Trouble  in  Carding  Shoddy 

In  a  shoddy  mill  using  60-inch  cylinders,  3" 
in  a  set,  running  100  revolutions,  we  have 
much  trouble  with  uncarded  threads  and  short 
staple.  What  is  the  best  size  of  wire  for  the 
cylinders,  doffers  and  workers  for  this  class  of 
work?  Is  a  slow,  thick  feed  better  carding 
than  a  fast,  thin  feed,  where  the  production 
remains  the  same?  Carder  (1160). 

Shoddy  should  be  laid  down  in  the  picker 
room  and  properly  oiled  for  at  least  twelve- 
hours  and  if  possible  twenty-four  hours.  It 
would  pick  and  card  better  as  the  rags  are 
then  soft  and  pliable.  The  teeth  in  the  picker 
should  be  sharp.  The  number  of  teeth  de- 
pends on  the  grade  of  stock  and  the  staple- 
wanted.  It  is  important  to  set  the  feed  rolls; 
properly  to  the  cylinder  and  wrap  them  with- 
a  damp  strip  of  cloth  as  tight  as  possible  to- 
fill  up  the  distance  from  the  center  of  the  feed 
roll  to  the  teeth  of  the  cylinder.  If  the  feed 
roll  is  properly  set  good  results  should  be  ob- 
tained. One  hundred  revolutions  on  60-inch<. 
cylinders  is  too  fast.  It  does  not  give  time  to 


10  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

card  properly  and  only  shortens  the  staple 
and  makes  a  lot  of  waste.  I  would  advise  run- 
ning 80  revolutions;  even  75  would  not  be  too 
•slow,  and  the  card  clothing-  will  last  longer.  I 
would  prefer  a  medium  heavy  feed  running 
the  feed  rolls  slow,  rather  than  a  thin  feed 
and  running  them  fast.  I  would  advise  32 
wire  on  the  first  cylinder,  33  on  the  second  arid 
34  on  the  last.  Set  the  first  with  a  30  gauge, 
second  with  a  32  gauge,  and  third  with  a  34 
gauge.  If  the  cards  are  in  good  condition  and 
properly  set  there  is  no  reason  why  good  re- 
;sults  should  not  be  obtained.  All  this  can  be 
spoiled  by  trying  to  do  too  much  in  a  given 
time.  It  is  better  to  do  less  and  have  the  work 
right  than  to  get  off  a  large  production  and 
have  it  spoiled.  Rogers. 


Matching  Mixtures 

How  can  I  determine  the  proportions  of 
each  color  in  the  enclosed  samples  of  black 
and  white  mixed  cloth?  Mixture  (440). 

The  best  way  to  match  textile  mixtures  of 
different  colors  is  to  make  a  small  sample, 
weighing  the  stock  on  a  grain  scale,  and  card- 
ing and  mixing  the  different  colors  on  a  hand 
•card.  One  hundred  grains  is  a  convenient 
weight,  as  each  grain  is  equivalent  to  1  per 
cent.  After  it  has  been  carded  the  stock  is 
washed  in  neutral  soap,  dried  and  compared 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  II 

with  the  sample  to  be  matched.  Repeated 
tests  are  made  until  the  right  proportions  are 
obtained.  If  facilities  are  at  hand,  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  verify  the  hand-card  sample  by  mak- 
ing a  larger  one  of,  say  two  pounds,  carding  it 
on  the  breaker  card.  A  small  card  for  this 
purpose  is  built  and  it  is  a  very  useful  ma- 
chine in  a  mill  making  mixed  goods. 


Twisted  Rolls  in  Carding 

I  send  you  with  this  letter  samples  of 
twisted  rolls  or  nubs  which  form  on  our  cards 
in  carding  English  wool  graded  as  46s.  These 
rolls  form  between  the  fancy  and  the  doffer. 
I  can  lie  on  the  floor  and  see  them  drop  under 
the  card  after  having  been  drawn  down  by  the 
cylinder.  I  changed  the  speed  of  the  tumbler 
thinking  that  it  held  the  stock  too  long,  but 
there  was  no  improvement.  The  card  is  48  by 
48  with  34  wire  on  the  cylinders.  The  fancy 
is  9  inches  in  diameter  clothed  with  28  wire, 
open  set.  I  have  tried  setting  the  workers 
close  and  away  off,  but  without  helping  mat- 
ters any.  The  difficulty  is  encountered  only 
with  this  46s  grade  of  wool.  It  occurred  to  me 
that  the  rolls  might  be  caused  by  the  wool 
being  gummy.  I  would  like  very  much  to  have 
you  tell  me  what  will  remedy  the  trouble. 

Carder   (1163). 

These  rolls  are  made  by  the  fancy  which  has 
too  coarse  a  wire  for  the  cylinder.  The  fancy 
wire  should  be  at  the  most  only  two  numbers 
coarser  than  the  cylinder  wire.  In  most  cases 
the  same  wire  is  used.  The  stock  like  sample 


12  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

requires  but  little  work  from  the  fancy,  it  lies- 
on  the  points  of  the  cylinder  wire,  and  in  this 
position  it  is  in  the  right  place  to  be  rolled  by 
the  fancy.  A  28  wire  fancy  running  on  a  34 
wire  cylinder  would  be  about  right  for  rolling 
the  stock.  Sometimes  a  coarse  fancy  will 
throw  bits  of  stock  on  the  doffer  where  the 
draft  of  the  fancy  will  keep  it  rolling  until  it 
goes  back  in  the  card  or  drops  on  the  floor.  A 
fancy  stripper  can  be  used  to  good  advantage 
on  some  kinds  of  stock  to  prevent  rolling. 

Lytton. 

It  would  be  very  easy  to  locate  the  trouble 
il  I  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  the  work 
on  the  card,  but  it  is  difficult  to  point  out  the 
remedy  at  a  distance  and  with  only  such  par- 
ticulars as  "Carder"  gives.  The  stock  is  long^ 
and  hard  to  raise  and  card  out.  There  is  a 
natural  tendency  for  it  to  roll.  To  do  good 
work  the  card  must  be  in  Al  condition,  with 
all  belts  tight,  especially  the  lickerin  and 
fancy  belts.  The  cards  should  be  set  fairly 
close,  especially  the  doffer  and  fancy.  The 
speed  of  the  fancy  must  be  just  right  to  raise 
and  clear  the  cylinder,  otherwise  it  will  load 
and  cause  rolls.  It  might  be  a  good  plan  ta 
reverse  the  workers.  This  will  card  the  stock 
out  better,  but  it  will  be  harder  on  the  staple 
and  on  the  wire.  I  think  most  of  the  trouble 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  13 

is  due  to  the  setting  and  speed  of  the  fancy. 
The  fancy  belt  should  be  tight  and  the  cloth- 
ing- kept  sharp.  More  work  is  spoiled  on  the 
card  by  the  fancy  than  at  any  other  point. 

.Rogers. 


Equipment   and   Operation   of   Carbonizing 
Plant 

We  have  been  in  the  habit  of  using  wool 
more  or  less  burry  as  we  have  no  means  of 
getting  rid  of  the  burrs  before  sending  the 
•stock  to  the  cards,  the  wool  being  put  to  the 
cards  with  the  burrs  in  and  the  result  is  that 
the  card  clothing  is  in  bad  shape.  I  have  been 
considering  introducing  a  burr  picker,  but  am 
in  doubt  whether  it  would  do  the  work  as  well 
as  carbonizing.  For  that  reason  I  would  like 
to  see  some  good  articles  on  carbonizing,  giv- 
ing full  instructions  as  to  how  it  could  and 
should  be  done  and  the  probable  cost  and 
equipment  for  a  carbonizing  plant,  that  would 
handle  about  500  pounds  of  wool  a  day. 

Buxton    (1244). 

Carbonizing  is  by  far  the  most  satisfactory 
method  of  removing  burrs  from  wool,  unless 
the  burrs  are  very  large  or  are  what  is  known 
us  "hard"  burrs.  These  may  be  all  knocked 
out  of  the  wool  by  burr  picking  which  will 
leave  the  stock  in  better  condition  than  by  the 
carbonizing  process,  as  the  latter  has  a  tend- 
ency to  weaken  the  wool.  To  carbonize  the 


14  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

wool  for  hard  burrs  the  vat  should  be  filled 
with  cold  water  and  enough  sulphuric  acid 
added  to  bring  the  bath  up  to  about  6°  Tw. 

After  the  bath  is  brought  up  to  the  required 
strength  the  scoured  wool  is  entered  and  al- 
lowed to  soak  for  about  three  hours  and  then 
forked  out,  drained  and  thoroughly  extracted. 
The  wool  may  be  put  into  the  acid  bath  either 
wet  or  dry,  but  in  putting  in  the  dry  stock 
more  liquor  is  absorbed  and  consequently  when 
it  is  taken  out  more  water  has  to  be  added, 
which  weakens  the  bath,  and,  of  course,  more 
acid  is  required  to  bring  it  back  to  its  former 
strength.  This  is  an  essential  point  as  the 
bath  should  not  be  allowed  to  run  down  if  the 
stock  is  to  be  carbonized  thoroughly. 

The  next  step  in  carbonizing  is  the  drying 
and  baking  process,  which  can  be  done  either 
on  the  old  fashioned  table  dryers  or  in  the 
Stone  dryer  manufactured  by  the  James 
Hunter  Machine  Co.,  or  the  Sargent  carboniz- 
ing plant.  If  the  table  dryer  is  used  a  set  of 
heavy  crush  rollers  and  a  cone  duster  would 
have  to  be  installed  in  order  to  crush  the 
burrs  and  free  the  wool  from  the  dust  and 
pieces  of  burrs  which  cling  to  the  stock. 

If  the  table  or  drawer  dryer,  Pig.  1,  is  used, 
the  stock  must  be  spread  out  evenly  and  not 
too  thick  on  these  drawers,  and  the  fan 
should  be  started,  the  sliding  door  in  the  air 


CARDING    AND    SPINNING 


l6  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

shaft  closed,  and  the  sliding  door  in  the  out- 
side of  the  building  opened.  In  this  way  the 
stock  should  be  dried  considerably  as  the  cold, 
•damp  air  is  driven  outside.  The  fan  should 
toe  left  running  about  two  hours,  the  steam 
then  turned  on,  the  outside  sliding  door  closed 
and  the  sliding  door  in  the  air  shaft  opened. 
There  should  be  enough  piping  in  the  coil  so 
that  the  drying  room  can  be  heated  to  a  tem- 
perature of  at  least  220°  F.  The  fan  if  kept 
running  all  this  time  will  give  a  good  circula- 
tion. The  wool  should  be  turned  over  once  in 
a  while  so  that  it  will  dry  thoroughly,  and 
should  not  be  taken  off  the  dryer  until  the 
burrs  are  well  baked,  when  they  will  turn 
black  and  can  be  crumbled  up  between  thumb 
and  finger.  The  stock  should  then  be  passed 
through  heavy  crush  rollers  and  a  cone  duster, 
and  then  neutralized.  In  neutralizing  the 
stock  enough  alkali  and  soap  should  be  used 
to  remove  the  acid,  or  to  have  the  stock  smell 
sweet.  If  too  much  alkali  is  used  it  turns  the 
stock  yellow  and  makes  it  harsh.  In  building 
the  table  or  drawer  dryer  as  many  drawers 
can  be  put  in  as  are  required.  One  dry  room 
with  about  5  drawers,  3  by  3  feet  square, 
makes  a  pretty  fair  room  to  heat,  and,  of 
course,  the  fan  should  be  in  proportion  to  the 
size  of  the  room  built.  Tambura. 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  I? 

Calculating  Weight  of  Sliver 

The  first  breaker  of  a  set  of  woolen  cards  is 
fitted  wih  a  Bramwell  feed,  the  second  breaker 
with  a  Torrance  creel,  and  the  third  breaker 
or  finisher  card  with  an  Apperly  feed  or  a 
creel.  What  is  the  method  of  calculating  the 
weight  of  ends  or  sliver  that  should  enter 
these  feeds  in  order  to  give  a  6-run  roving? 

Milton    (867). 

No  set  rule  can  be  given  for  calculating  the 
size  of  the  drawing  for  a  given  size  of  roving. 
The  carder  must  use  his  own  judgment,  taking 
care  not  to  have  it  too  heavy  or  there  will  be 
difficulty  in  passing  it  through  the  guides  on 
the  second  breaker.  If  the  drawing  is  too 
heavy  on  the  feed  table  of  the  Apperly  feed 
the  roving  is  apt  to  be  lumpy;  the  finer  the 
drawing  and  the  more  of  it  on  the  feed  table 
the  better  the  roving.  With  a  creel  on  the 
second  breaker  and  an  Apperly  feed  on  the 
finisher  the  size  of  the  roving  is  regulated  by 
an  adjustment  of  the  gears.  Sam  Driver. 


Carding  Cotton  Mixes 

I  am  having  trouble  carding  cotton  mixes. 
The  cotton  is  fairly  well  matted;  the  picker 
does  not  do  very  good  work  and  neppy  yarn  is 
the  result.  We  have  an  old  wooden  frame 
card,  and  lately  when  we  moved  from  one 
floor  to  another  the  card  was  so  racked  and 
worn  that  we  could  not  set  it  close  enough  to 
take  out  the  neps.  What  would  be  the  best 
method  of  setting,  and  to  what  size  gauge?  It 
is  set  to  29  now.  Where  is  the  setting  most 


l8  KINKS    ON   WOOL 

liable  to  help,  and  will  the  fancy  help  or  cause 
the  neps?  We  are  now  making  1  1/2-run 
yarn;  about  1  1/2  draft  on  the  spinning  ma- 
chine or  about  48  inches  of  roving.  The  stock 
contains  from  20  to  50  per  cent,  cotton.  The 
ring  doffers  make  about  14  turns  a  minute. 

Clinton   (774). 

If  the  card  is  in  such  shape  as  Clinton  says 
it  is,  the  best  thing  to  do  is  to  open  the  win- 
dow and  throw  it  out.  If  the  mixing  picker  is 
not  doing  good  work,  have  the  machine  fixed 
so  that  it  will.  The  mixing  picker  has  nothing 
to  do  with  making  neps.  Run  the  cotton  and 
the  stock  that  is  mixed  with  it  separately 
through  the  picker  before  mixing.  I  never  set 
a  card  closer  than  2 9 -gauge  on  any  kind  of 
stock.  If  Clinton  can  set  the  stock  with  a 
2  9 -gauge  without  having  it  strike,  the  card  is 
all  right  and  the  fault  must  be  somewhere 
else,  probably  in  the  fancy.  Set  the  fancy  so 
you  can  just  hear  it  on  each  side;  then  set 
both  sides  firmly  into  the  cylinder.  See  that 
the  stripper  belt  is  tight;  run  the  first  breaker 
doffer  faster  so  as  to  get  the  stock  out  of  the 
card  quicker.  Speed  the  ring  doffers  up  to  18 
or  20  turns  and  the  condenser  accordingly. 
The  roving  is  apparently  about  right. 

Sam  Driver. 


Even  and  Uneven  Roving 

I  am  boss  spinner  in  a  woolen  mill.     About 
two  weeks  ago  the  weavers   complained  about 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  IQ 

lumps  in  the  filling  which  broke  in  the  eye  of 
the  shuttle.  The  mules  are  set  just  the  same 
as  they  always  were.  Can  you  tell  me  where 
the  trouble  is?  Grant  (994). 

Since  carding  and  spinning  go  hand  in  hand 
in  woolen  manufacturing,  it  is  first  necessary 
to  refer  briefly  to  carding.  As  a  rule  the 
carder  calculates  his  roving  to  be  drawn  down 
to  about  one-half,  on  the  mule,  in  order  to 
assist  in  drawing  out  and  reducing  any  lumps 
or  other  irregularities  in  the  roving  in  the  final 
yarn  produced.  There  will  be  no  trouble  in 
drawing  out  a  good  even  roving  made  from 
long,  even-stapled  wools,  this  one-half  or  more 
in  spinning;  however,  the  best  spinner  will 
find  it  impossible  to  draw  out  uneven  roving 
or  such  as  made  -from  short  staple  stock  more 
than  one-third,  without  keeping  the  mule 
standing  most  of  the  time  piecing  up  broken 
ends. 

With  reference  to  uneven  roving  delivered 
to  the  spinning  room,  the  lumpy  sorts  will  be 
the  ones  making  the  most  trouble,  in  fact  if 
not  impossible  for  a  fine  thread  to  be  spun  out 
of  it,  since  it  is  a  well-known  law  in  spinning 
that  the  lumps  will  take  the  twist  only  after 
the  thin  places  between  the  lumps  are  twisted 
extra  hard.  This  naturally  tends  to  increase 
in  proportion  the  size  of  the  lumps,  and  in 
turn  reduce  the  thinner  places  still  more. 

In  order  to  explain  this  subject,  the  accom- 


20 


KINKS    ON   WOOL 


panying  two  illustrations  are  given.  Fig.  1 
represents  an  uneven,  lumpy,  unspun  roving  or 
carded  wool.  Examining  the  illustration,  we 
will  find  that  instead  of  having  an  even  sur- 
face, the  roving  is  lumpy,  caused  either  pos- 
;sibly  on  account  of  dull  card  wires,  or  insuffi- 
cient carding,  or  improperly  prepared  stock, 
etc.  Such  roving  may  now  and  then  occur  in 
any  mill,  but  it  should  be  seldom  the  case,  and 
if  found,  the  trouble  at  once  remedied  by 
proper  attention  to  the  set  of  cards  where  it 
was  made. 


In  drawing  out  this  roving  on  the  mule,  the 
same  receives  a  few  turns  per  inch  as  the  car- 
riage backs  off.  The  drafting  occurs  at  this 
point,  and  since  the  tendency  is  for  the  twist 
to  take  effect  between  the  lumps,  as  previously 
mentioned,  it  follows  that  the  lumps  are  more 
or  less  untouched  wTith  reference  to  twists  by 
the  mule,  remaining  soft  and  pliable,  and 
being  drawn  out  only  slightly  in  size.  The 
thinner  places  between  the  lumps  have  taken 
all  the  twist  which  actually  ought  to  have 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  21 

gone  in  the  full  length  of  the  thread  under 
operation,  said  fine  hard  twisted  portions  of 
the  yarn  not  drawing  down  any  to  speak  of. 
For  this  reason  the  mule  does  little  toward 
correcting  such  imperfect  roving,  resulting  in 
an  uneven  yarn  as  readily  seen  by  means  or 
examining  diagram  Fig.  2,  where  we  see  that 
the  bunches,  as  mentioned  before,  although 
slightly  drawn  out  as  to  size,  are  yet  distinct 
in  the  thread,  the  thinner  portions  of  the 
thread  having  taken  all  the  twist,  clearly 
showing  too  much  of  it.  The  reason  for  this 
is  found  in  the  fact  that  the  larger  in  circum- 
ference a  body,  the  harder  it  is  to  revolve  it, 
and  since  the  lumps  in  the  roving  are  of  a 
larger  diameter  as  compared  to  the  thinner 
portions  of  the  thread,  it  consequently  follows 
that  said  lumpy  portions  of  the  thread  acquire 
little,  if  any,  twist  compared  to  the  thinner 
portions;  in  fact  all  the  thinner  portions  in 
the  full  stretch  of  roving  under  operation 
must  be  twisted  solidly  into  a  wire,  as  we 
might  say,  before  twist  is  put  in  the  larger 
places,  i.  e.,  the  bunches,  each  bunch  acting  as 
a  pin  of  a  fixed  lever  for  the  length  of  the 
thin  roving  adjoining. 

The  proper  amount  of  the  draft  to  be  put  in 
the  yarn  at  the  mule,  requires  good  judgment, 
the  rule  usually  observed  being  that  the  longer 
and  coarser  the  stock,  the  quicker  the  drawing 


22  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

should  be.  If  the  roving  pulls  out  from  be- 
tween the  draft  rollers  during  drawing,  it  is  a 
sure  sign  that  the  draft  is  too  slow,  and  for 
M  hich  reason  put  on  a  larger  draft  gear  (back- 
ing off  gear),  or  let  out  on  the  upper  steady 
rope  and  take  up  at  the  bottom.  If  the  rov- 
ing snaps  off  about  half  way  between  the  draft 
roll  and  the  tops  of  the  spindle  during  draw- 
ing, it  is  an  indication  that  the  carriage  is 
backing  off  too  quickly,  the  twist  not  having 
a  chance  to  take  hold,  and  in  which  instance 
reverse  the  previously  given  advice. 

Conrad. 

Vigogne  Yarn 

I  am  informed  that  the  enclosed  sample  of 
vigogne  yarn,  or  in  fact  any  vigogne  yarn,  is 
not  made  in  this  country.  Can  you  tell  me 
where  it  is  manufactured? 

Manufacturer  (1199). 

The  sample  enclosed  was  a  cotton  and  wool 
mixed  yarn.  Our  French  correspondent  in 
replying  to  this  inquiry  gives  the  following 
account  of  the  genuine  vigogne  fiber  and  the 
fabrics  made  from  it: 

Of  all  the  special  wools  obtained  from  South 
America  such  as  lama,  guanaco,  alpaca,  vi- 
gogne, etc.,  it  is  the  last  named  which  excels 
all  the  others.  The  vigogne  hair  is  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  shawls,  fishing  nets  and 
cloaks.  The  different  shades  of  vigogne  hair 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  23 

are  first  separated.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
countries  where  vigogne  hair  is  grown  produce 
a  very  solid  fabric  from  it  which  compares 
favorably  with  the  best  grades  of  wool  goods. 
It  is  completely  waterproof  and  at  the  same 
time  fine  and  light.  The  best  vigogne  fabrics 
come  from  Catamarca  in  the  Argentine  Re- 
public. Since  1890  an  imitation  of  vigogne 
has  been  made.  This  consists  in  mixing  wool 
and  cotton  in  variable  proportions.  In  many 
cases  the  wool  is  replaced  by  the  hair  of  the 
angora  rabbit  and  sometimes  of  the  ordinary 
rabbit.  I  will  try  to  send  you  a  few  samples 
of  vigogne  fabrics  in  a  few  days.  Gaul. 


Changing  to  Coarse  Stock 

We  have  changed  our  cards  over  to  a  coarse 
clothing  for  long  coarse  stock  but  have  not 
changed  the  fancy.  Now  the  doffer  cannot 
take  the  stock  from  the  cylinder  and  the  cloth- 
ing is  choked  up.  We  have  tried  setting  the 
fancy  deeper  into  the  cylinder,  running  it 
faster,  and  have  even  bent  the  wire  forward. 
Is  there  anything  you  can  suggest  that  will 
help  us  out?  Foster  (967). 

This  seems  to  be  a  case  of  saving  the  old 
fancy  at  any  cost.  As  there  is  only  one  fancy 
on  a  card  and  as  the  cost  of  reclothing  it  with 
wire  suited  to  the  work  would  be  small,  I 
would  suggest  that  Foster  get  clothing  a  little 
coarser  than  that  on  the  cylinder.  All  the 


24  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

expedients  for  making  the  fancy  do  work  it. 
was  never  intended  to  do  seem  to  have  been 
tried,  so  I  judge  a  very  short  stock  had  been 
previously  used  or  the  fancy  was  about  worn 
out.  The  range  of  work  that  a  fancy  will  do- 
is  large,  but  there  are  limits  and  when 
reached,  the  cost  of  new  clothing  should  not 
be  considered  against  the  loss  caused  by 
makeshift  devices.  Burleigh. 


Soap  and  Oil  Solution 

Please  let  me  know  what  I  can  use  to  keep 
a  solution  of  oil,  soap  and  water  from  separat- 
ing. This  solution  is  made  by  boiling  the  fol- 
lowing ingredients: 

14  gals,  prime  lard  oil, 
30  Ibs.  olive  worsted  soap, 
30  gals,  water. 

Perth   (1263). 

The  quantities  of  materials  indicated  by  our 
correspondent  are  not  properly  balanced;  the 
quantity  of  soap,  being  only  7.9  per  cent.,  is 
too  small  to  emulsify  the  27.3  per  cent,  of  lard 
oil.  As  soap  itself  is  an  emulsifying  com- 
pound, the  greater  the  amount  used  the 
greater  will  be  the  result.  It  is  suggested  that 
our  correspondent  use  not  less  than  25  pounds 
of  soap  in  this  mixture  and  increase  the 
amount  of  water  by  10  gallons.  To  effect  a 
more  thorough  emulsification  of  the  oil  the 
addition  of  a  few  pounds  of  concentrated  soda 
crystals  is^  recommended,  as  it  will  aid  materi- 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  25 

ally.  Very  good  results  are  obtained  by  the 
use  of  a  few  quarts  of  any  good  sulphated  oil, 
taking  the  place  of  a  corresponding  weight  of 
soap.  It  is  presumed  that  our  correspondent's 
mixture  is  intended  for  oiling  wool,  and  if 
such  is  the  case  he  will  find  should  he  use  a 
mixture  containing  sulphated  oil,  that  the  lard 
oil  will  not  separate  after  boiling,  and  that  the 
scouring  out  of  the  lard  oil  will  be  more  easily 
effected.  Berwick. 


If  the  soap  is  of  a  good  quality,  it  alone 
should  be  sufficient  to  emulsify  the  oil  and 
water  present.  The  designation,  "olive  wor- 
sted soap"  is,  however,  a  rather  indefinite  one. 
If  it  is  an  olive  oil  soda  soap  containing  about 
25  to  30  per  cent,  of  water,  the  proportion 
here  given  should  easily  carry  the  oil  without 
any  separation.  If,  however,  the  soap  is  only 
a  soft  soap  made  up  with  a  large  proportion  of 
water,  it  is  probable  that  there  is  not  sufficient 
real  soap  present  to  properly  emulsify  the  oil 
and  water.  To  bring  about  such  an  emulsion 
that  will  not  separate  into  its  constituents,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  add  a  small  amount  of 
alkali  to  the  mixture  in  question.  I  would 
suggest  the  use  of  3  to  4  pounds  of  soda  ash. 
The  latter  should  first  be  dissolved  in  some 
water  to  be  used  by  boiling,  and  then  the  solu- 
tion added  to  that  of  the  soap  and  oil,  and  the 


:26  KINKS    ON   WOOL 

•whole  mixture  well  boiled  up  together.  If  it 
is  not  desirable  to  use  soda  ash  on  account  of 
any  special  use  to  which  the  emulsion  is  to  be 
put,  a  milder  alkali  like  borax  may  be  em- 
ployed. About  4  to  5  pounds  of  borax  should 
be  substituted  in  this  case  for  the  soda  ash. 
The  use  of  borax  will  make  the  emulsion 
somewhat  more  expensive,  but  its  alkalinity 
will  be  much  milder.  Howell. 


Nubs  for  Knickerbockers 

We  are  going  to  make  a  line  of  knickerbock- 
ers and  I  would  like  to  get  some  information 
on  making  nubs;  how  to  set  the  cards  to  get 
good  yarn.  Akron  (983). 

To  make  nubs  for  knickerbockers  select 
short,  fine  wool  and  run  it  through  the  picker 
dry  and  then  through  a  first  breaker  as  fol- 
lows: Feed  on  very  light;  set  off  the  workers 
from  the  cylinder  3/16  of  an  inch;  set  the 
strippers  just  close  enough  to  the  cylinders  to 
clear  them;  set  the  doffer  with  a  2 8 -gauge. 
Do  not  run  the  comb;  set  the  fancy  just  to 
touch  the  cylinder,  start  the  card  and  the  nubs 
will  drop  under  the  card.  For  nubs  larger  or 
smaller  set  the  cards  accordingly. 

These  nubs  are  then  taken  to  the  fulling 
room  and  fulled  until  quite  hard,  then  dried 
and  they  are  ready  for  mixing.  When  the 
batch  is  ready  for  the  cards  set  off  the  workers 
of  the  first  breaker  from  1/8  to  3/16  of  an 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  27 

inch;  let  the  strippers  remain  as  they  were, 
TDut  set  the  workers  off  the  strippers  slightly; 
•set  the  doffers  as  for  regular  work  and  the 
fancy  the  same. 

Set  the  second  breaker  the  same  as  the  first, 
•except  that  the  worker  next  the  fancy  is  set 
quite  close  to  the  cylinder.  This  is  to  regulate 
the  size  of  the  nubs  required;  set  the  fancy 
the  same  as  on  ordinary  stock.  Set  the  fin- 
isher the  same  as  the  first  and  second  break- 
ers, with  the  exception  of  the  first  and  last 
workers.  These  can  be  set  closer  to  the  cyl- 
inder to  regulate  the  size  of  the  nubs.  The 
best  way  to  get  the  workers  on  both  sides  alike 
is  to  notice  the  number  of  turns  on  the  nut 
before  setting.  Sam  Driver. 


Difficulty  With  Rub  Rolls  on  Coarse  Wool 

We  would  like  to  know  of  a  good  means  for 
overcoming  the  difficulty  in  making  well 
rubbed  roping  from  pure  wool  similar  to  the 
-enclosed  sample.  What  is  the  best  lubricant 
for  this  class  of  wool?  A  great  deal  of  stock 
drops  below  the  card  and  the  roping  runs  back 
on  the  mule  on  account  of  the  roping  being 
so  loose  and  fluffy.  Dexter  (1158). 

In  carding  coarse  wool  like  the  sample  sub- 
mitted, I  found  the  following  method  to  give 
the  best  results:  The  aprons  should  be  set  to 
a  32  gauge  with  the  middle  roll  on  the  same 
level  with  the  rest,  giving  them  a  long  run  and 
"being  careful  that  they  do  not  rub  together. 


28  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

They  can  usually  be  run  at  350  revolutions, 
but  if  they  shake  the  card  at  a  less  speed  they 
are  either  worn  badly  or  set  wrong.  The  one 
that  is  either  too  long  or  too  short  should  be 
changed.  Stop  the  aprons  so  that  when  the 
eccentric  is  moved  it  will  go  either  towards  or 
away  from  the  card,  as  it  will  move  easier  in 
this  position.  The  eccentric  is  held  by  two 
bolts  on  the  under  side.  A  leader  should 
never  be  used  on  either  pulley  and  the  belt 
can  .  generally  be  made  to  run  properly  by 
adjusting  the  idle  pulleys.  Keep  the  aprons 
damp  or  they  will  not  do  their  work.  The 
best  dressing  for  aprons  is  made  of  three  parts 
crude  oil  and  one  part  degras.  With  very  lit- 
tle heat  this  mixture  will  readily  blend.  Put 
this  mixture  on  after  stripping  the  cards  and 
the  work  will  go  along  smoothly.  Coarse  wool 
will  sometimes  drop  under  the  card  if  the 
cylinders  are  allowed  to  get  dull,  or  are  run 
too  fast.  The  cylinders  on  coarse  wool  should 
run  about  70  revolutions  a  minute. 

Lytton. 

To  answer  this  question  intelligently  one 
should  be  on  the  spot,  as  the  question  is  rather 
indefinite.  Much  depends  on  the  adjustment 
of  the  rub  rolls.  The  Barker  condensers  can 
be  made  to  rub  anything  if  they  are  properly 
adjusted  and  oiled  with  the  right  kind  of  rub 
oil.  Neatsfoot  or  Castor  oil  answers  very  well 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  2Q 

as  a  rub  oil.  Some  claim  that  they  are  too 
expensive,  but  no  oil  is  too  expensive  that 
gives  satisfaction.  Many  carders  are  handi- 
capped by  superintendents  who  insist  that 
because  an  oil  is  cheap  the  carders  must  use 
it.  Use  enough  oil  or  emulsion  to  keep  the 
stock  partly  damp.  Judgment  must  be  used 
in  oiling  the  wool.  Get  the  stock  damp,  but 
not  too  wet,  and  it  will  work  better.  If  the 
rubs  get  filled  up  with  oil  use  some  ammonia 
as  this  will  cut  out  the  oil  and  make  the  rubs 
take  hold  better  and  give  better  results. 

If  the  stock  drops  below  the  cards  they 
must  be  running  too  fast.  For  this  grade  of 
stock  85  revolutions  per  minute  is  fast  enough. 
If  run  any  faster,  there  will  be  a  lot  of  waste 
made.  Setting  the  cards  properly  and  having 
them  sharp  cannot  help  but  give  good  work. 
Adding  a  little  powdered  rosin  to  the  rub  roll 
will  make  them  take  hold  better.  If  "Dexter" 
is  using  the  old  style  rub  roll  he  should  take 
each  set  out  and  grind  down  even  on  a  roller 
grinder  and  then  set  close  with  a  little  oil  on 
each.  Rogers. 


A  Kink  in  Carbonizing 

It  will  show  how  economy  is.  consulted  in 
the  Yorkshire  handling  of  rags  if  a  leaf  from 
the  book  of  a  Leeds  firm  is  quoted.  These 
dealers  had  an  unlimited  demand  at  one  time 


3O  KINKS    ON   WOOL 

for  carbonized  waste  of  a  maroon  or  brown 
color.  They  asked  a  dyer  how  they  could  car- 
bonize and  dye  brown  in  one  operation?  He 
brought  them  some  Azo-Carmine,  which  was 
dissolved  in  the  acid  for  carbonizing.  The 
latter  was  strong  enough  to  discharge  some  of 
the  original  color  and  after  the  oven- drying 
and  the  subsequent  willeying  the  mixed  rags 
came  out  all  wool  and  all  brown  of  substan- 
tially the  very  shade  wanted.  The  item  is 
given  as  an  encouragement  to  experiment  and 
to  ingenuity.  Regent 


Causes  of  Uneven  Roping 

I  read  a  list  of  Causes  of  Uneven  Roping  in 
the  Textile  World  Record  several  months  ago 
and  I  cut  out  the  article.  It  has  been  lost  and 
I  want  to  get  another  one  like  it,  for  there  are 
some  points  in  it  that  I  had  not  heard  before, 
and  I've  been  in  the  card-room  since  I  was  a 
boy.  Perhaps  it  wouldn't  do  any  harm  if  you 
published  it  again.  Dobney  (937). 

The  portion  of  the  article  referred  to  by 
Dobney  is  as  follows:  When  using  creels  on 
the  second  breaker  never  have  a  full  set  in  at 
one  time;  have  partly  filled  spools  on  one-half 
of  the  creel  and  full  spools  on  the  other  half; 
the  roping  will  be  more  even  in  this  way. 
When  all  the  spools  run  out  together  there 
are  so  many  splicings  that  they  cause  the  rop- 
ing to  be  heavy  for  a  time.  The  more  spools 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  3 1. 

there  are  in  the  creels  the  more  doubling  and 
the  more  even  roping.  One  drawing  out 
makes  the  roping  finer. 

Among  the  causes  of  uneven  roping  are  im- 
perfect cleaning  and  mixing  of  the  stock,  ir- 
regularity in  putting  on  oil  and  composition, 
inaccurate  weighing  and  feeding,  feed  rolls 
and  other  cylinders  winding  stock  and  filling 
up  after  stripping,  strained  drawings  from 
second  breaker  to  Apperly  feed,  belts  and 
gears  slipping,  and  inferior  card-room  help. 
Perfection  in  the  form  of  all  cylinders  from 
the  largest  to  the  smallest  is  essential  in  mak- 
ing even  roping. 

If  the  ring  doffer  is  out  of  true  so  that  it 
comes  nearer  to  the  cylinder  during  one  part 
of  its  revolution,  there  will  be  a  gradual  vari- 
ation in  the  roping  from  coarse  to  fine  and  the 
increase  and  decrease  will  alternate  in  lengths 
equal  to  the  circumference  of  the  ring.  If  the 
main  cylinder  is  out  of  true  so  that  one  side 
runs  nearer  to  the  doffer  than  the  other,  the 
variations  in  size  of  roping  will  be  repeated  in 
lengths  equal  to  the  circumference  of  the  cyl- 
inder. Uneven  roping  may  also  be  caused  by 
the  workers,  leader-in,  tumbler  and  fancy 
being  out  of  true. 

These  imperfections  may  not  always  be  ap-. 
parent  to  the  naked  eye  and  are  not  very 
easily  detected.  There  is  no  doubt  that  these 
small  things  are  the  cause  of  uneven  roping 


32  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

•and  of  uneven  yarn,  besides  an  endless 
amount  of  trouble.  The  remedy  is  simple  and 
consists  in  truing  the  small  cylinder  as  well 
as  the  large  one  and  keeping  them  true  no 
matter  how  hard  the  cards  may  be  driven. 
Quality  first  and  then  quantity  is  the  best  rule 
for  both  carder  and  manufacturer. 

The  feed  rolls  should  be  of  the  same  size 
-and  perfectly  true;  if  one  is  larger  than  the 
•other,  they  will  not  deliver  evenly,  and  this 
will  be  more  or  less  perceptible  in  the  yarn 
according  to  the  difference  in  size  between 
them.  Another  very  frequent  cause  of  uneven 
roping  is  the  careless  manner  in  which  the 
pulleys  are  lagged  with  leather,  making  them 
untrue  or  lopsided,  causing  the  belt  to  run 
slack  or  tight,  thus  driving  them  at  unequal 
speeds  and  producing  results  similar  to  thoje 
from  uneven  surfaces. 

A  dull  tumbler  will  cause  uneven  strands  on 
the  ends  of  the  spools.  Uneven  feeds  make 
uneven  roping.  Another  cause  is  defective 
setting  of  the  ring  doffers.  If  the  fancy  on 
the  finisher  is  set  too  hard  or  runs  too  fast  or 
the  card  runs  too  long  without  stripping,  or  if 
the  cylinder  is  dull,  fine  strands  will  be  made 
on  the  ends  of  spools  and  heavy  strands  in  the 
middle.  The  first  full  spools  made  after  strip- 
ping the  cylinder  should  be  torn  up. 

Crowding  the  stock  in  the  first  breaker  feed 
and  then  letting  it  run  nearly  out  is  the  cause 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  33 

of  much  uneven  roping.  The  small  pulleys  of 
the  Apperly  feed  should  be  cleaned  and  oiled 
every  week.  When  weighing  roping  weigh  the 
tops  and  bottoms,  then  the  sides  and  the  mid- 
dle. The  tops  and  bottoms  should  be  run  sep- 
arately. If  making  warp  and  filling  from  the 
same  lot,  the '  tops  will  make  the  strongest 
warp.  To  ensure  even  roping,  the  feed  rolls, 
leader-in  and  tumbler  should  be  faultless.  If 
they  are  allowed  to  get  filled  with  stock,  the 
best  results  will  not  be  obtained. 


Oiling  Different  Kinds  of  Stock 

We  would  like  to  obtain  all  the  information 
possible  as  to  the  use  of  oil  or  emulsion  on 
woolen  stock  to  be  carded. 

Should  the  consistency  of  the  emulsion,  i.  e., 
the  proportion  of  the  ingredients,  vary  in  a 
mill  according  to  the  different  stocks  it  is 
using,  or  is  it  customary  for  a  mill  to  use  the 
.same  proportion  of  ingredients? 

Are  there  a  few  standard  proportions  which 
could  be  given  as  suitable  for  the  different 
kinds  of  woolen  mill  work? 

What  regulates  the  proper  amount  of  emul- 
sion to  be  used? 

Are  any  better  results  obtained  by  using  all 
oil  instead  of  a  mixture?  Dalton  (1025). 

It  is  customary  for  manufacturers  to  vary 
proportions  of  the  emulsions  to  suit  the  stock 
that  is  being  carded. 

There  are  no  standard  proportions  that 
could  be  given  for  the  different  kinds  of  stock. 


34  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

The  materials  used  for  woolen  goods  vary  so 
widely  that  the  exact  proportions  of  oil  and 
water  can  be  determined  only  by  actul  tests. 
The  amount  of  emulsion  is  regulated  to  pro- 
duce the  most  perfect  yarn  with  the  least 
amount  of  waste. 

Opinions  vary  widely  among  'manufacturers 
regarding  the  relative  advantages  of  using  oil 
or  a  mixture  of  oil  and  water  on  wool.  One  of 
the  disadvantages  of  using  water  is  the  evap- 
oration which  causes  an  irregularity  in  the 
stock.  If  effective  means  are  taken  to  prevent 
excessive  evaporation  a  moderate  amount  of 
water  facilitates  the  carding  process.  Any 
water  added  to  the  stock  in  the  picking  room 
of  course  evaporates  before  it  reaches  the 
spinning  process. 


Soft  Noses  on  Bobbins 

We  are  spinning  7-8  to  1  1/4-run  yarn  on 
English  and  American  mules  and  are  troubled 
with  soft  noses  on  the  bobbins  which  cause 
the  filling  to  slip  from  the  bobbin  during 
weaving  and  make  much  waste.  Can  you 
suggest  a  remedy?  Ridley  (542). 

We  have  secured  the  following  expert  opin- 
ions on  this  trouble,  the  cause  of  which  is  very 
difficult  to  point  out  without  knowing  all  the 
conditions  in  the  mill  where  it  exists. 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  35 

Be  sure  that  the  quadrant  on  the  mule  is 
not  set  too  far  back,  as  this  will  invariably 
cause  the  mule  to  wind  hard  on  the  shoulder 
and  soft  or  slack  on  the  nose.  If  it  is  a  Davis 
and  Furber  machine  be  sure  that  the  two 
center  tracks  are  perfectly  true  and  level, 
otherwise  it  will  wind  with  soft  places.  The 
builder  rail  should  also  be  in  such  a  position 
as  will  insure  an  even  wind.  Holz. 


In  order  to  answer  the  question  fully  we 
ought  to  have  full  details  of  the  style  of  mule, 
together  with  the  number  of  teeth  in  the 
gears,  the  kind  of  quadrant  plate,  builder,  etc. 
Soft  noses  on  bobbins  can  often  be  remedied 
by  setting  the  quadrant  arm  a  little  lower 
down.  This  has  the  effect  of  turning  the  spin- 
dles faster  when  the  yarn  is  being  wound  on 
the  nose,  thus  making  them  tighter. 

The  difficulty  might  also  be  caused  by  the 
faller  leg  knocking  off  the  square  stud  too 
soon,  or  it  may  be  that  there  is  something  that 
is  imperfectly  set  just  at  the  finish  of  the 
draw  so  that  the  weight  is  taken  off  the  yarn 
and  the  yarn  is  not  wound  on  the  nose  under 
tension.  There  are  so  many  things  that  might 
cause  this  difficulty,  and  which  vary  with  each 
type  of  mule,  that  we  can  give  only  general 
Information  without  knowing  more  of  the 
details.  Wilts. 


36  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

There  are  many  things  that  might  cause  the 
trouble  which  Ridley  mentions.  The  floor  may 
be  uneven;  the  track  may  drop  as  it  goes 
toward  the  head  and  the  machine  get  ahead 
of  the  wind;  the  faller  might  trip  too  quickly. 
If  we  could  have  one  of  the  bobbins  sent  us 
we  think  there  would  be  no  difficulty  in  find- 
Ing  a  remedy.  Lincoln. 


Preventing  Soft  Noses  on  Cops 

How  can  a  woolen  or  worsted  mule  be  pre- 
vented from  making  soft  .noses  on  tops  of  cops 
without  a  nosing  motion?  Stamford  (670). 

There  are  various  things  that  would  cause  a 
bobbin  or  cop  to  be  soft  on  the  top.  First,  if 
the  quadrant  arm  is  too  far  from  the  vertical 
the  nose  will  be  too  loose.  Second,  the  trouble 
might  be  in  the  builder  shoes;  they  not  being 
adjusted  properly,  as  is  often  the  case.  Set 
the  rail  on  the  forward  and  back  shoes  so  that 
when  the  builder  is  wound  up  the  studs  will  be 
close  to  the  top  of  the  incline.  The  adjust- 
ment for  both  shoes  at  once  is  made  by  the 
slot  in  that  part  of  the  rail  opposite  the  in- 
clined side.  If  necessary  change  the  position 
of  the  back  shoe,  without  moving  the  front 
shoes,  by  the  small  rod  connecting  the  two. 
For  cops  I  would  suggest  that  the  shoe  on  the 
inside  be  set  so  that  the  end  of  the  builder  rail 
be  just  on  the  edge  of  the  groove  on  the  shoe, 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  37 

ready  to  start  down  as  soon  as  the  builder 
starts  to  work. 

It  is  sometimes  necessary  to  have  a  special 
shoe  on  the  front  end  of  the  builder  rail.  For 
cops  this  can  be  secured  from  the  shops  where 
the  mules  are  made.  At  the  rear  end  of  the 
rail  there  should  be  a  hinged  flip,  one  end 
hinged  to  the  rail  and  the  other  end  resting 
on  a  set  screw,  and  as  the  rail  is  lowered  the 
flip,  which  is  adjustable,  becomes  raised  on  a 
level  with  the  rail.  Now  the  end  attached  to 
the  rail  is  lowered  with  it  while  the  end  rest- 
ing on  the  casting  remains  stationary.  As  a 
result  the  angle  on  the  corner  of  the  flip  be- 
comes raised  above  the  surface  of  the  builder 
rail,  and  as  the  carriage  comes  against  the 
back  stops  the  builder  rail  traveler  strikes  the 
projection  thus  formed,  and  imparts  a  sharp 
flip  to  the  winding  faller.  The  effect  of  this 
is  to  wind  a  few  turns  of  yarn  down  over  the 
nose  of  the  bobbin,  making  a  firm  nose  and 
preventing  the  yarn  from  slubbing  up  the 
bobbin. 

Then  again  the  trouble  might  be  in  the 
drum  gear,  which  is  driven  by  the  quadrant 
chain.  This  gear  should  be  larger  for  the 
winding  of  cops.  They  have  any  desired  num- 
ber of  teeth  for  this  gear  at  the  shops  where 
the  mules  are  made.  Spinner. 


3&  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

Testing  for  Soap  or  Alkali  in  Waste  Liquor 

Would  you  please  inform  me  if  there  is  any 
chemical  in  liquid  or  powder  form  that  when 
added  to  waste  liquor  from  washing1  machines 
will  determine  any  trace  of  soap  or  alkali? 

Atwood   (2038). 

The  testing  of  wash  water  to  determine 
whether  it  is  free  from  soap  or  alkali  is  not 
difficult,  but  in  order  to  be  sure  of  one's  re- 
sults it  becomes  necessary  that  the  tests  be 
made  carefully  with  properly  prepared  chemi- 
cals. Testing  for  the  presence  of  soap  in  any 
wash  or  rinse  water  is  best  done  with  a  few 
drops  of  dilute  muriatic  acid  added  to  a  sam- 
ple of  the  water  contained  in  a  clean  glass. 
If  soap  in  appreciable  quantity  is  present,  the 
water  will  become  slightly  turbid,  due  to  the 
separation  of  free  fatty  acid.  If,  on  the  other 
hand,  the  amount  of  soap  in  the  wash  water 
is  very  slight,  the  degree  of  turbidity  may  be 
so -faint  as  to  be  difficult  to  detect.  As  most 
mill  soaps  always  contain  free  alkali,  perhaps 
the  best  test  is  for  free  alkali,  which,  if  found, 
is  always  a  sure  indication  that  soap  is  also 
present.  A  solution  of  phenolphthalein  in 
alcohol  (1  part  of  the  former  to  500  parts  of 
the  latter)  is  first  prepared.  It  can  be  ob- 
tained at  a  drug  store.  Four  ounces  of  this 
solution  will  be  sufficient  for  hundreds  of 
tests,  as  only  one  or  two  drops  are  used  for  a 
test.  A  glass  of  the  water  to  be  tested  is 


CARDING  AND   SPINNING  39 

taken,  and  to  it  is  added  a  drop  or  two  of  the 
phenolphthalein  solution,  when,  if  soap  con- 
taining free  alkali  is  present,  the  entire  solu- 
tion becomes  tinted  pink  or  reddish  according 
to  the  amount  present. 

As  the  solution  of  phenolphthalein  is  very 
sensitive  to  alkali,  the  person  who  makes  the 
test  should  wash  a  test  glass  thoroughly  after 
each  test,  and  keep  it  in  a  place  where  it  may 
not  collect  dust.  The  bottle  containing  the 
test  solution  should  have  a  glass  stopper. 

Beta-Naphthol. 


Horse  Power  of  a  Waterfall 

Please  give  the  rule  for  estimating  without 
instruments  the  flow  of  water  over  a  waterfall. 
Also  give  me  the  rule  for  estimating  the  num- 
ber of  horse  power  where  the  height  of  the 
fall  and  the  flow  of  water  are  known,  the  lat- 
ter having  been  found  by  the  rule  asked  for  • 
above.  Maynard  (1167). 

The  following  is  the  method  for  the  meas- 
urement of  an  open  stream  by  velocity  and 
cross-section  to  arrive  at  the  theoretical  horse 
power  of  the  stream:  Measure  the  depth  of 
the  water  at  from  6  to  12  points  across  the 
stream  at  equal  distances  between.  Add  all 
the  depths  in  feet  together  and  divide  by  the 
number  of  measurements  made;  this  will  be 
the  average  depth  of  the  stream,  which  mul- 
tiplied by  its  width  will  give  its  area  or  cross- 


4O  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

section.  Multiply  this  by  the  velocity  of  the 
stream  in  feet  per  minute,  and  the  result  will 
be  the  discharge  in  cubic  feet  per  minute. 

The  velocity  of  the  stream  can  be  found  by 
laying  off  100  feet  of  the  bank  and  throwing  a 
float  into  the  middle,  noting  the  time  taken  in 
passing  over  the  100  feet.  Do  this  a  number 
of  times  and  take  the  average;  dividing  thib 
distance  by  the  time  gives  the  velocity  at  the 
surface.  As  the  top  of  the  stream  flows  faster 
than  the  bottom  or  sides,  the  average  velocity 
being  about  83  per  cent,  of  the  surface  veloc- 
ity at  the  middle,  it  is  convenient  to  measure 
a  distance  of  120  feet  for  the  float  and  reckon 
it  as  100. 

Water  Power: 

English  Rule:  33,000  pounds  raised  one 
foot  in  one  minute  =  1  h.  p. 

200  pounds  of  water  (20  imperial  gallons) 
3  feet  fall  per  second  =  1  h.  p.  or  60  gallons 
1  foot  fall  per  second  —  1  h.  p.  there- 
fore: 224  gallons  —  2240  (Ibs.)  X  3  (feet) 
X  60  (seconds)  -=-  33,000  =  12.2  h.  p.  Deduct- 
ing 25  per  cent,  on  account  of  turbine  loss 
gives  9.8  actual  or  effective  h.  p. 

If  the  sectional  area  is  taken  in  small  sec- 
tions and  different  rates  of  flow,  10  per  cent, 
for  friction  would  be  about  right. 

The  gross  power  of  a  fall  of  water  is  the 
product  of  the  weight  of  water  discharged  in 
a  unit  of  time  into  the  total  head,  or  the  dif- 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  4! 

ference  of  vertical  elevation  of  the  upper  sur- 
face of  the  water  at  the  points  where  the  fall 
in  question  begins  and  ends.  The  term  "head" 
used  in  connection  with  Water  wheels  is  the 
difference  in  height  from  the  surface  of  the- 
water  in  the  wheel-pit  and  the  surface  in  the 
pen-stock  when  the  wheel  is  running. 

A  water  wheel  or  motor  of  any  kind  can- 
not utilize  the  whole  of  the  head  since  there 
are  losses  of  head  at  both  the  entrance  to  and 
the  exit  from  the  wheel.  There  are  also  losses 
of  energy  due  to  friction  of  the  water  in  its- 
passage  through  the  wheel. 

F.  S.  Hinds, 
Architect   and   Engineer. 


Production  of  Woolen  Finisher  Card 

Please  state  the  best  method  of  calculating- 
the  production  of  a  woolen  finisher  card.  I 
have  calculated  the  production  of  our  finisher 
cards,  from  the  weight  of  roving  and  size  of 
doffer  rings,  but  the  results  vary  from  15  to  25 
per  cent,  from  the  actual  product.  The  out- 
side diameter  of  rings  is  11  3/4  inches.  The 
doffer  makes  14  turns  per  minute.  We  are- 
using  11  rub-roll  condensers.  The  roving  reels 
1  1/2  runs  as  it  oomes  from  the  condenser. 
There  are  20  ends  taken  from  each  of  the  two. 
doffers.  Iroquois  (342). 

The  error  in  Iroquois'  calculation  is  evident 
from  his  explanation.  He  has  neglected  to 
take  into  account  the  draft  of  the  roving  by 


-42  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

the  condenser.  At  our  request  Iroquois  has 
informed  us  that  the  spool  drum  at  the  fin- 
isher is  29  inches  in  circumference,  and  makes 
21  turns  per  minute,  showing  a  surface  speed 
of  609  inches  per  minute.  The  surface  speed 
•of  the  doffer,  which  is  11  3/4  inches  in  diam- 
eter and  makes  14  turns  per  minute,  is  517 
inches  per  minute,  consequently  the  spool 
drum  winds  18  per  cent  more  length  of  rov- 
ing than  the  doffer  is  delivering.  This  in- 
crease is  due  to  the  draft  of  the  rub  rolls. 
Iroquois'  error  was  due  to  his  calculating  from 
the  speed  of  the  doffer  and  the  weight  of  yarn 
at  the  spool  drum. 

Taking  the  speed  of  the  spool  drum  and 
weight  of  the  roving  at  the  spool  drum  as 
factors  we  calculate  the  production  of  the  card 
as  follows: 

S09  (in.  per  min.)  X  40  (ends)  ~  677  yds. 
roving  per  min. 

677  (yds.)  -f-  150  (yds.  per  oz.)  —  4  1/2  ozs. 
roving  per  min. 

4  1/2  (ozs.)  X  60  (min.  per  hour)  =  17  Ibs. 
roving  per  hour. 


Operatives  Needed  for  a  Ten  Set  Mill 

How  many  operatives  would  be  required  for 
•a  mill  manufacturing  wool  goods  like  the  en- 
closed samples,  which  are  medium  carded 
woolen  goods?  I  wish  that  you  would  make 
out  a  list  of  the  machinery  for  a  ten  set  mill 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  43 

equipped  for  this  class  of  work,  and  give  a 
statement  of  the  number  of  hands  required. 
I  would  like  to  have  you  give  the  number  of 
each  kind  of  operatives.  Gaylord  (1891). 

In  dealing  with  the  equipment  of  a  ten-set 
woolen  mill,  I  will  begin  with  the  machinery 
for  handling  the  raw  stock.  If  it  is  the  inten- 
tion of  the  party  to  scour  his  own  wool,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  have  a  four-bowl  wool 
scouring  machine,  a  21-foot  dryer,  an  ex- 
tractor, and  burr  picker,  with  two  men  to 
operate  these  machines.  The  next  depart- 
ment should  be  the  dye  house,  equipped  with 
five  dye  tubs,  8  feet  wide,  and  4  feet  deep, 
with  perforated  false  bottom,  made  of  cypress 
and  fitted  with  at  least  a  3-inch  pipe  to  allow 
an  ample  supply  of  water.  It  will  be  neces- 
sary to  have  three  men  to  pole  the  stock  in 
the  tubs  and  attend  to  the  extracting,  with 
another  man  to  run  the  dryer  and  double 
sheet  the  stock,  and  an  overseer  of  dyeing. 

The  picker  house  comes  next.  There  should 
be  a  fearnaught.  This  equipped  with  an  auto- 
matic feed  should  properly  handle  all  the  mix- 
ing for  a  ten-set  mill.  It  will  also  be  neces- 
sary to  have  an  oil  tank  in  which  to  make  and 
measure  the  emulsion  for  the  stock,  and  a 
duster  for  the  mill  waste,  also  a  blower  sys- 
tem to  convey  the  mixed  stock  to  the  different 
bins  in  the  card  room.  Three  men  should  be 
able  to  handle  the  mixing  and  dusting,  under 


44  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

the  supervision  of  the  overseer  of  carding,  or 
his  second  hand,  and  attend  to  the  stock. 

In  laying  out  the  card  room,  large  bins 
should  be  built,  with  a  large  galvanized  iron 
pipe  running  overhead,  with  an  opening  and 
switch  in  each  bin,  and  connecting  with  the 
picker  house,  so  as  to  enable  the  picker  man 
to  blow  his  stock  to  any  one  of  the  bins.  The 
cards  should  be  four  cylinder,  60  by  60  inches, 
with  Bramwell  feed  for  first  breaker  and  Ap- 
perly  connecting  with  finisher  card,  combina- 
tion rubs  and  garnett  breast,  also  one  floor 
grinder  and  two  traverse  grinders.  For  help 
there  will  be  an  overseer,  second  hand,  and  a 
third  hand  to  reel  and  weigh  the  roping.  Twa 
strippers,  one  man  to  attend  to  the  Bramwell 
feeds,  two  men  to  care  for  the  Apperly  feeds, 
and  two  boys  to  attend  the  finishers. 

The  spinning  room  should  have  twelve 
mules,  2-inch  gauge,  four  hundred  spindles 
each,  and  using  an  8-inch  bobbin,  and  a  full- 
ing machine  for  fulling  spindle  bands.  The 
help  would  be  an  overseer,  fixer,  one  man  to 
carry  roping  from  the  card  room,  a  boy  ta 
sort  waste,  and  twelve  spinners. 

In  the  spooling  and  dressing  department, 
four  spooling  frames  should  be  sufficient  to 
handle  the  work,  and  two  dressing  frames 
equipped  with  size  box  and  dryer  for  sizing 
yarn,  one  twisting  machine  and  one  skein 
winding  machine.  The  help  required  would 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  45 

be  an  overseer,  one  man  to  help  around  the 
room  and  take  warps  to  the  weave  room,  twro 
dresser  tenders,  one  girl  each  on  the  twisting 
and  skein  winding  machines,  and  four  girls  to 
do  the  spooling. 

In  the  weaving  department  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  have  three  drawing-in  frames,  forty- 
five  82-inch  looms  for  thirty  harness  work. 
These  should  be  four-box  looms.  The  over- 
seer should  have  a  man  to  attend  to  the  reeds 
and  harnesses  and  direct  the  drawing  in. 
There  would  also  be  required  two  filling  car- 
riers, one  boy  to  sort  waste  and  pick  up  bob- 
bins, three  drawing-in  girls,  and  in  some 
places  it  will  be  found  necessary  to  have  boys 
or  young  girls  to  hand  in  to  the  girls  that  are 
drawing-in  warps.  One  man  to  look  over  all 
warps  before  starting  the  loom  in  order  to 
guard  against  wrong  drawing-in  or  reeding. 
Two  loom  fixers,  each  one  to  take  care  of  a 
section  of  nineteen  looms.  The  remaining 
seven  looms  to  be  taken  care  of  by  either  a 
spare  hand,  or  the  man  who  does  the  perch- 
ing. The  burling  and  sewing  should  be  under 
the  supervision  of  the  overseer  of  finishing. 
The  amount  of  help  required  depends  alto- 
gether upon  the  class  of  goods  made,  and  the 
class  of  weavers  in  the  mill. 

The  finishing  room  should  have  five  fulling 
mills,  two  8 -string  washers,  one  extractor,  one 
cloth  dryer,  one  sand  roll  machine,  three. 


46  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

shears,  two  steam  brushing  machines,  one 
press,  one  dewing  machine  and  one  measur- 
ing and  winding  machine.  The  help  in  the 
department,  besides  the  overseer,  would  in- 
clude a  second  hand,  two  men  for  the  fulling 
and  washing,  two  men  on  the  dryer,  three 
men  on  the  shears,  one  man  on  the  press,  and 
one  to  run  the  steam  brush,  or  help  in  the 
shipping  of  goods.  The  engine  and  boilers 
would  come  under  the  care  of  the  master 
mechanic,  who  would  have  an  engineer,  fire- 
man and  helper. 

If  the  mill  was  located  far  from  a  city  it 
would  be  necessary  to  have  a  fair  sized  ma- 
chine and  carpenter  shop,  with  a  master  me- 
chanic, boss  carpenter  and  two  helpers. 

If  some  of  the  stock  is  to  be  carbonized,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  add  two  cypress  dip  tanks 
with  cages  for  acid,  another  extractor,  and  a 
neutralizing  washer  to  the  wool  scouring  de- 
partment. The  same  dryer  can  be  used  for 
carbonizing  as  well  as  for  wool  drying,  and 
one  more  man  would  have  to  be  added  to  this 
department.  Manx. 


Setting  Mixing  Picker 

We  are  running  a  mixing  picker  with  con- 
cave feed  rolls  which  seem  to  raise  havoc  with 
the  staple.  Will  you  give  me  some  pointers 
on  how  the  machine  ought  to  be  set  so  I  can 
compare  them  with  our  machine. 

Daniels    (1131). 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  47 

1.  The    picker    should    be    set    on    a    solid 
foundation  so  that  there  will  be  no  vibration. 

2.  The   spiked    feed   roll   and   concave    dish 
should   be  set  as  close   as  possible  to   the  cyl- 
inder teeth  and  not  strike.     This  will  keep  the 
feed  roll  from  winding  stock. 

3.  The  feed  roll  should  be  set  down  in  con- 
cave  within   half   an   inch  of  striking.      If   set 
way   off   the   stock  will    dwell   in   concave    and 
cause  it  to  cut  the  staple.     Save  the  staple. 

4.  The  feed  rolls  and  apron  should  run  as 
fast   as  the   cylinder   will   take  it.      This   saves 
the  staple,  because  there  will  be  no  chance  for 
the  stock  to  dwell  in  the  concave. 

5.  The    grates    and    outlet    kept    clean    and 
not   allowed   to    get  filled   up    with   dirt  under 
the  picker.     This  will  give  a  better  draft  and 
the  picker  will  do  better  work.     The  stock  will 
be  cleaner. 

6.  Plenty  of  ventilation  back  of  the  gauze 
room,  and  the  belts  all  good  and  tight. 

With  a  picker  equipped  with  spur  teeth  feed 
rolls  the  feed  rolls  must  be  set  as  close  to  the 
cylinder  as  on  concave  feed;  everything  else 
the  same.  D.  R.  S. 


The  Belgium  System  of  Woolen  Carding 

What  is  the  Belgium  system  of  woolen  card- 
ing? How  does  it  differ  from  the  system  gen- 
erally employed  in  American  mills? 

Geister   (1932). 


4&  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

Regarding  the  Belgium  system  of  carding, 
I  wish  to  say,  it  is  a  known  fact  that  a  great 
deal  of  fine  short  noils  and  waste  from  Eng- 
land find  their  way  over  to  Belgium  to  be  con- 
verted into  fine  spun,  beautiful  yarn  running 
from  7  to  9  runs,  and  reshipped  to  England. 
Europe  is  noted  for  making  fine  shoddy  and 
yarns.  They  have  the  system  down  to  such  a 
nicety  that  a  high  class  of  goods  is  a  result. 
The  Belgium  system  has  not  grown  in  the 
United  States  simply  because  it  requires 
skilled  help  to  run  the  machinery.  There  are 
only  a  few  mills  in  this  country  that  use  the 
system. 

Like  our  own  woolen  cards,  the  Belgium 
system  has  three  operations,  namely,  first  and 
second  breaker  and  finisher.  On  account  of 
the  fine,  short  stock  used,  the  cards  are  cov- 
ered with  hoods  to  keep  in  the  fly.  Unlike  our 
own  first  breaker  in  the  woolen  system  with 
its  doffer  and  side  creel  to  a  bobbin,  the  first 
machine  in  Belgium  makes  laps  or  rolls  that 
are  fed  to  the  second  machine,  the  object  be- 
ing to  give  a  more  perfect  blending  of  the 
stock,  especially  in  mixtures.  The  second  ma- 
chine resembles  our  second  breaker,  but  when 
the  stock  reaches  the  doffer  it  is  combed  off 
and  runs  on  a  railroad  back  of  the  third  ma- 
chine or  finisher.  There  is  a  traverse  motion 
going  back  and  forth  the  width  of  the  apron. 

The    stock    comes    out   of    the    front    of    the 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  49 

finisher  in  a  thin  web,  and  is  subdivided  into 
threads — passing  through  the  rub  aprons — 
and  then  to  the  spools.  Narrow  leather  belts 
divide  the  sliver  and  there  are  four  spools  fill- 
ing at  a  time  from  the  front  end  of  the  ma- 
chine instead  of  only  two  as  is  the  case  of  the 
ordinary  finisher  or  condenser.  The  belts 
dividing  the  ends  are  very  narrow,  about  1/4 
inch  wide,  with  240  ends  coming  from  a 
60-inch  card  on  to  four  spools.  The  Belgium 
system  is  noted  for  its  using  very  short  and 
very  fine  stock.  It  is  not  adapted  for  coarse 
stock.  The  construction  of  the  finisher  is  com- 
plicated. The  greatest  care  has  to  be  taken 
in  setting  the  motion,  and  if  the  man  in 
charge  does  not  understand  the  machine  there 
is  endless  trouble  for  him.  The  workers  and 
strippers  on  all  the  machines  are  covered. 

Schwartzwald. 


Fine  Ends  on  the  Apperly  Feed 

I  am  having  trouble  with  the  side  ends  com- 
ing fine  on  the  finisher  of  a  card  that  is 
equipped  with  an  Apperly  feed.  Can  you  sug- 
gest any  remedy?  Bunker  (731). 

There  are  many  things  that  cause  the  out- 
side strands  to  be  fine  at  times.  I  would  ad- 
vise Bunker  to  take  out  the  doffers  and  give 
them  a  good  light  grinding.  Then  I  should 
give  them  a  good  brushing  with  a  hand  card 
covered  with  wool.  Grind  all  day  if  neces- 


5O  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

sary,  or  until  they  are  perfectly  true.  Per- 
haps the  waste  ring  is  a  trifle  higher  than  the 
others.  In  that  case  I  should  move  the  out- 
side or  waste  ring  out  1/16  or  1/8  of  an  inch 
so  the  ring  next  to  it  on  the  other  doffer  would 
deliver  heavier  roving.  The  spare  ring  may 
steal  from  the  ring  next  to  it.  When  I  had 
trouble  with  the  outside  end  being  fine  I  used 
to  take  out  the  packing  of  the  spare  or  waste 
ring  and  move  it  out  1/16  or  1/8  and  that 
would  bring  up  the  outside  strands  to  their 
proper  size.  I  should  incline  the  overhead 
drawing  on  the  side  that  was  fine. 

Sam  Driver. 


Setting  of  Workers  and  Strippers 

We  are  running  our  cards  on  stock  to  be 
made  into  felt  goods.  This  stock  contains 
wool,  cotton  and  shoddy  in  varying  amounts, 
according  to  the  quality  of  goods  desired. 
There  has  been  some  discussion  among  carders 
as  to  the  setting  of  the  workers  and  strippers 
on  the  main  cylinder.  One  carder  maintains 
that  to  get  good  results  from  practically  two 
cards,  the  setting  of  all  workers  should  be  the 
same.  I  maintain  that  the  last  two  should  be 
set  closer  than  the  first  and  second  workers. 
We  are  using  all  fillett  clothing,  No.  33  wire 
on  workers  and  main  cylinder.  Can  you  ad- 
vise me  which  one  has  the  better  argument  in 
regard  to  setting  the  cylinders  for  best  re- 
sults? At  present  we  are  running  workers  set 
about  32  gauge.  Exeter  (1935). 


CARDING  AND   SPINNING  £1 

The  32  gauge  is  all  right  and  the  workers 
should  all  be  set  the  same.  One  thing  can  be 
done  that  will  greatly  benefit  this  class  of 
work,  and  that  is  to  have  the  worker  pulleys 
all  of  different  sizes.  Start  from  the  feed  end 
of  the  card  and  have  each  pulley  one-quarter 
of  an  inch  larger  than  the  one  before  it.  This 
will  make  a  more  even  mix  and  smoother  rov- 
ing, the  stock  will  spin  better  and  make 
better  yarn.  It  is  also  a  good  plan  for  second 
breaker  card.  The  idea  of  setting  a  part  of 
the  workers  off  on  a  finisher  card  on  this  class 
of  work  can  have  but  one  result.  The  first 
that  are  set  off  will  deliver  the  long  stock  and 
retain  the  short,  consequently  the  long  stock 
will  go  forward  first  and  be  put  into  the  rov- 
ing in  the  center  of  the  strand;  this  will  put 
the  short  stock  on  the  outside,  which  is  just 
the  reverse  of  what  it  should  be. 

Lytton. 


The  first  worker  should  be  set  with  a  20 
gauge  open;  the  next  worker  set  with  the 
same  gauge,  but  left  a  little  looser;  the  next 
tight,  and  then  graduating  more  closely  until 
the  last  worker  is  set  as  close  as  possible  with- 
out striking  the  cylinder.  Set  the  strippers 
the  same  as  the  workers  to  cylinder,  and  set 
the  workers  as  close  as  possible  to  the  strip- 
pers. Set  the  doffer  close  to  the  cylinder. 


52  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

The  finisher  or  last  card  should  be  graduated 
only  a  little  closer.  Commence  the  first 
worker  with  a  27  gauge  loose;  the  next  one 
;set  a  little  close;  and  so  on  until  the  last  one 
next  to  the  fancy  is  set  the  closest. 

Sam  Driver. 


Emery  Cloth  on  Traverse  Grinders 

Can  you  tell  me  whether  traverse  grinders 
are  ever  covered  with  emery  cloth?  I  have 
heard  that  they  are  but  I  have  not  seen  one. 

Bowie   (1137). 

Traverse  grinders  can  be  covered  with 
emery  cloth  and  are  in  general  use  in  cotton 
card  rooms.  To  fasten  the  ends  of  emery 
cloth  or  filleting,  two  small  slits  are  sawed  on 
each  side  of  the  emery  wheel.  Then  the  ends 
of  the  cloth  are  put  through  these  slits  and 
fastened  on  the  inside  of  the  wheel  by  small 
clamps.  Put  on  a  very  light  coat  of  glue  and 
wind  in  the  same  as  with  any  other  filleting. 

D.  V. 


Grinding1,  Settings  and  Care  of  Wool  Cards 

How  often  should  a  card  be  ground  in  order 
to  keep  it  in  the  best  possible  condition  on  50 
per  cent,  good  clean  fine  Territory  wool,  50 
per  rent,  fine  shoddy? 

What  are  the  causes  of  rough,  twitty  or 
bunchy  work  from  cards  and  how  avoided? 

How  does  a  perfectly  ground  point  on  a 
wool  card  look? 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  53 

What  is  the  best  size  of  wire  and  clothing  to 
use  on  a  set  of  woolen  cards  on  all  fine  stock 
(strictly  fine),  in  order  to  make  good,  smooth, 
even  work  free  from  specks  or  mixtures  of  all 
kinds? 

How  close  can  carding  surfaces  on  a  wool 
card  be  kept  and  not  touch,  and  what  thick- 
ness of  gauge  is  best  to  use  to  do  the  setting? 

What  is  the  best  for  carding  out  specks,  a 
rough  point  or  an  absolutely  polished,  smooth 
point,  no  matter  what  the  shape  of  that  point 
may  be?  Carder  (1981). 

Cards  should  be  ground  as  often  as  they  get 
dull.  It  is  a  good  plan  for  the  carder  to  look 
over  his  cards  every  day  or  two,  to  see  if 
there  are  any  dull  places  on  either  workers  or 
cylinders.  If  there  are,  they  should  be  ground 
as  soon  as  possible.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  use 
what  is  called  a  false  worker,  which  is  an  iron 
shaft,  to  take  the  place  of  any  worker  that 
may  be  removed.  The  cylinder  should  also  be 
watched  for  blisters.  A  card  will  never  do 
good  work  when  dull.  It  may  have  to  be 
ground  in  three  or  four  days,  or  it  may  run  as 
many  months. 

Twits  are  made  in  a  number  of  ways.  A 
single  wire  may  be  pulled  up  in  a  ring  so  as 
to  stand  a  little  higher  than  the  others.  This 
will  often  cause  a  twit  every  time  it  comes  to 
the  wipe  roll. 

Rings  should  be  watched  carefully  for  high 
wires,  which  should  be  put  in  place  with  a 
tube.  Noils  will  sometimes  make  twits.  There 


54  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

are  usually  short  splinters  in  noils.  One  of 
these  may  get  stuck  between  the  wires  of  a 
ring,  and  make  a  twit  every  time  it  comes  to 
the  wipe  roll.  Twits  are  often  made  on  the 
mule  and  the  carder  is  frequently  blamed  for 
them.  Many  mules  are  run  without  a  feed 
rope,  the  spinner  turning  the  quadrant  by 
hand. 

If  the  spinner  happens  to  be  at  the  end  of 
the  machine  piecing  up,  and  thinks  the  mule 
will  go  in  without  breaking  down,  he  fre- 
quently stays  there  instead  of  attending  to  the 
quadrant.  In  this  way  twits  may  be  made  the 
whole  length  of  the  mule.  A  single  stretch  in 
the  mule  may  in  this  way  make  more  twits 
than  a  carder  will  make  in  half  a  day.  Dull 
wrire  will  make  rough  work  a/t  any  time,  and 
bunchy  work  is  usually  made  by  the  stock 
going  in  uneven  on  the  feed  end  of  the  card. 
The  top  feed  roll  should  always  be  covered 
with  shorter  wire  than  the  bottom.  The 
lickerin  should  be  covered  with  short  wire.  In 
this  way  a  great  deal  of  bunchy  work  can  be 
prevented.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  have  the 
worker  pulleys  of  different  sizes.  This  will 
prevent  many  bunches. 

The  appearance  of  a  ground  point  on  a  wool 
card  depends  on  what  it  is  ground  with.  If  it 
is  ground  with  fine  emery  or  an  old  worn  out 
grinder,  it  will  look  like  a  chisel.  If  the 
emery  is  of  good  quality  and  No.  8  in  size,  It 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  55 

will  grind  the  wire  more  to  a  needle  point, 
which  is  much  to  be  preferred. 

I  prefer  No.  32  for  first  breaker;  No.  33  for 
second  breaker;  No.  34  for  finisher;  with  a 
straight  wire  open  set  for  the  fancy.  I  never 
use  filleting  on  a  cylinder.  I  much  prefer 
sheets.  Filleting  will  fill  up  much  more 
quickly  than  sheets,  and  the  stock  is  harder 
to  raise  from  it.  Filleting  will  not  make  such 
even  roving,  for  when  the  card  is  filled  up  the 
top  doffer  will  take  more  than  its  share  of 
stock. 

If  the  rolls  are  true,  carding  surface  on  a 
wool  card  can  be  set  to  a  32  gauge  and  not 
touch  when  at  work.  A  fine,  sharp  point  is 
best  for  all  work  on  a  card.  Lytton. 


Winding  Under  on  Woolen  Mules 

We  are  having  considerable  trouble  with  the 
yarn  winding  under  the  bobbins  on  our  mules. 
This  causes  the  yarn  to  break  when  it  is 
spooled  or  woven  from  the  shuttle.  We  think 
it  is  caused  by  the  spinner's  allowing  the  fall- 
ers  to  get  too  high.  Are  we  right?  If  not, 
"what  is  the  remedy?  Tippecanoe  (377). 

This  trouble  of  winding  under  on  woolen 
mules  is  very  annoying  and,  unfortunately, 
very  frequent  in  woolen  mills.  Attention  to 
the  care  and  management  of  the  machine  will 
generally  remedy  the  trouble,  but  it  is  one  in 
which  constant  attention  is  essential,  other- 
wise the  difficulty  will  recur.  A  prominent 


56  KIXKS    OX    WOOL 

builder  of  spinning  machinery,  to  whom  this 
question  was  submitted,  writes  the  following: 
'There  are  several  things  that  can  cause 
this  trouble.  In  the  first  place  the  faller  chain 
may  be  too  high;  secondly,  the  mule  may  be 
backing  off  too  much,  leaving  the  ends  too 
slack;  thirdly,  there  may  be  a  flat  place  on  the 
roll  that  runs  on  the  rail;  fourthly,  the  track 
may  not  be  level,  or  there  may  be  a  low  spot 
in  the  track  as  a  result  of  the  floor  having 
sprung;  again  the  trouble  may  arise  from  the 
shoe  being  too  straight.  The  remedies  for  the 
above  faults  will  readily  suggest  themselves." 


Testing-  Grease  Wool  to  Determine 
Shrinkage 

Please  give  me  information  regarding  the 
method  of  testing  grease  wool  to  determine  its 
shrinkage  as  practiced  in  French  conditioning 
houses.  Sanborn  (2018). 

This  inquiry  was  referred  to  our  French 
correspondent  who  replies  as  follows: 

Grease  wool  is  rarely  conditioned.  A  sample 
of  about  two  pounds  is  drawn  from  the  lot. 
This  is  obtained  by  drawing  small  portions 
from  a  number  of  bales.  These  samples  are 
taken  from  the  fleeces  on  the  outside  of  some 
of  the  bales  and  on  the  inside  of  others. 
Naturally  it  is  necessary  to  draw  the  samples 
from  different  parts  of  the  fleece.  In  testing 
large  lots  it  is  necessary  to  take  the  average 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  57 

of  two  or  even  three  samples.  The  test  sample 
thus  obtained  is  weighed  in  grains.  It  is  then 
scoured  by  the  following  process: 

1.  Washing  in  a  solution  of  Marseilles  soap 
at  120°  F. 

2.  Rinsing    in   water   at    80°    F.      The    wool 
should    be    a    clear    white    after    this    rinsing. 
The  duration  of  the  operations  varies  greatly, 
depending  upon  the  condition  of  the  wool. 

3.  Washing  in  a  1  to  2  per  cent,  solution  of 
hydrochloric  acid  at  a  temperature  of  120°  F. 

4.  Rinsing  in  a  5  to  6  per  cent,  solution  of 
carbonate  of  lime  at  a  temperature  of  120°  F. 

5.  Rinsing  in   a   solution   of  acetic   acid   at 
80°    F.       After    squeezing    the    water    out    by 
hand    the    sample    is    placed    in    an    ordinary 
Persoz  conditioning  oven.     The  temperature  is 
raised    to    212°    to     240°    F.     At    the    end    of 
three-quarters    of  an   hour   the    weight  of  the 
sample    is   found   to    be    constant,    which    indi- 
cates that  all  of  the  moisture  has  been  driven 
off  by  the  heat.     The  weight  of  the  sample  in 
this  condition  is  then  increased  by  the  conven- 
tional   allowance    for    moisture,    which    in    the 
case  of  wool  is   19   per  cent.     The   director  of 
the  public  conditioning  house  at  Amiens  is  not 
able  to  state  the  exact  time  required  for  con- 
ditioning raw   wool,    as   the   time   varies   with 
the  condition  of  the  wool.  Gaul. 


58  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

Qualitative  Tests  for  Fibers 

Can  you  give  me  a  few  qualitative  tests  for 
textile  fibers?  Walton  (974). 

The  following  is  a  list  of  tests  that  was  pub- 
lished in  the  Textile  World  Record  some  time 
ago: 

1.  Microscopic  Appearance. 

2.  Cotton  burns  without  smell,   while  wool 
and   silk   shrivel   up   and   give  off  the   odor   of 
burning  animal  matter. 

3.  A  boiling  solution  of  caustic  alkali  dis- 
solves silk   and  wool,   but  has  little   action  on 
cotton. 

4.  Concentrated     sulphuric     acid     dissolves 
cotton  and  silk  in  the  cold,  while  wool  is  little 
affected. 

5.  Schweitzer's  reagent    (ammoniacal   solu- 
tion of  oxide  of   copper)   dissolves  cotton   and 
silk,  but  not  wool.     Cellulose  is  reprecipitated 
by  gum,  sugar,  or  acids,  but  the  silk  substance 
by  acids  alone. 

6.  A  solution  of  basic  chloride  of  zinc  dis- 
solves silk,  but  not  cotton  or  wool. 

7.  A  solution  of  cotton  in  concentrated  sul- 
phuric acid  gives  a  purple  coloration  with  an 
alcoholic    solution     of    alpha-naphthol.       This 
reaction  really  indicates  the  presence  of  sugar, 
and  is  therefore  not  given  by  silk  or  wool. 

8.  Millions     reagent      (mercurous-mercuric 
nitrate)  gives  a  red  color  with  silk  or  wool,  but 
not  with  cotton. 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  59 

9.  Wool  (also  hair  and  fur)  is  blackened  by 
heating1  with  a  dilute   solution  of  plumbite  of 
soda,  which  is  prepared  by  dissolving  litharge 
in   caustic  soda.     Silk  and   cotton,   as  they  do 
not  contain  sulphur,  are  unaffected  in  color. 

10.  Nitric  acid  colors  wool  and  silk  yellow, 
but  does  not  affect  cotton. 

11.  An  acid  solution  of  indigo  extract  dyes 
wool  and  silk,  but  not  cotton. 


Nub  Effects  and  How  to  Produce  Them 

We  would  like  to  have  some  information  re- 
garding the  manufacture  of  nubs  and  how 
they  are  put  into  the  yarn  without  carding 
out.  Saxon  (1245). 

Bocker  or  nub  yarns  produce  very  attractive 
effects  when  properly  made  and  used  in  cassi- 
meres  and  dress  goods.  The  nubs  can  easily 
be  made  if  the  process  is  understood.  Short, 
fine  wool  of  a  good  felting-  quality  is  the  best 
to  use  for  this  purpose  and  by  following  the 
instructions  here  given,  good  results  should 
follow.  Take  an  old  breaker  card,  set  the 
workers  and  strippers  off  from  the  cylinder 
according  to  the  size  of  the  nub  wanted,  and 
remove  the  doffer  comb.  Any  first  breaker 
will  answer,  but  one  that  is  out  of  commission 
can  be  made  to  serve,  thus  avoiding  the  ne- 
cessity of  breaking  into  the  regular  work  of 
other  cards.  Run  in  a  sufficient  amount  of 
the  stock  to  fill  the  card.  Stop  the  feed  and 


60  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

allow  the  card  to  run,  and  the  nubs  will  drop- 
out  in  good  condition.  Fill  the  card  again  as 
required  to  produce  the  quantity  wanted. 

Felting  the  nubs  will  make  them  more  firm 
and  avoid  the  liability  of  being  reduced  in 
size  in  the  after  carding  process.  This  is  done 
in  various  ways,  such  as  boiling,  soaping  and 
pounding,  but  there  is  danger  of  overdoing  or 
a  lack  of  uniformity  where  these  methods  are- 
followed.  The  best  results  the  writer  ever 
had  came  from  the  use  of  a  machine  similar 
to  a  cylinder  flock  cutter  with  revolving  forks 
or  rods  in  the  place  of  the  cutter,  the  cylinder 
turning  in  one  direction  and  the  forks  in  the 
other,  similar  to  the  action  of  a  revolving 
duster.  I  found  this  machine  in  us.e  when  I 
went  to  the  mill,  but  do  not  know  whether  it 
was  made  specially  for  the  purpose  or  was  a 
remodeled  flock  cutter.  The  nubs  were 
soaped  slightly  and  put  into  the  cylinder,  ana 
the  felting  was  produced  without  the  nubs 
being  felted  together,  as  often  happens  where 
other  methods  are  employed.  The  forks  kept 
the  nubs  well  separated,  and  thfe  felting  was 
sufficiently  slow  to  avoid  overdoing  the  proc- 
ess. In  coloring  the  nubs,  care  should  be 
taken  not  to  boil  too  hard  or  allow  them  to- 
come  in  close  contact  with  the  steam,  as  this 
will  tend  to  felt  them  too  much  or  unevenly. 

The  amount  of  nubs  required  can  be  mixed 
with  the  lot  at  the  picker,  and  the  workers  set 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  6l 

•off.  a  little  in  carding-  to  avoid  reducing  the 
nubs  in  size.  This  method  is  often  employed, 
but  there  are  sometimes  objections  to  it,  es- 
pecially where  fine  yarns  are  made.  By  set- 
ting off  the  workers  the  quality  of  the  carding 
is  somewhat  impaired.  If  they  are  not  set  off 
the  nubs  are  reduced  in  size,  and  the  fibers 
carded  from  them  go  into  the  body  of  the 
yarn,  tending  to  change  the  mixture  or  shade. 
We  have  seen  rowy  goods  caused  by  the  fibers 
of  the  nubs  being  carded  out,  producing  irreg- 
ular effects,  due  to  the  variation  in  the  felted 
condition  of  the  nubs,  those  that  were  felted 
the  least  being  more  easily  carded  out.  This 
trouble  can  be  guarded  against  by  introducing 
the  nubs  in  the  card  instead  of  the  picker 
room.  This  can  be  done  by  a  special  feeding 
arrangement  attached  to  the  card,  preferably 
the  second  breaker.  The  quality  of  the  card- 
ing is  not  sacrificed,  as  the  necessity  of  setting 
off  the  workers  is  avoided.  The  device  con- 
sists of  a  V-shaped  feed  box  about  16  inches 
deep  and  the  same  width  at  the  top,  with  the 
length  corresponding  with  the  width  of  the 
card.  There  is  a  feed  roll  similar  to  the  or- 
dinary feed  roll  of  the  card,  fitted  to  enter  for 
about  one-half  of  its  diameter  into  an  aper- 
ture at  the  bottom  of  the  box.  Against  this 
feed  roll,  outside  the  box,  is  arranged  a  brush 
made  with  straight  wire  fancy  clothing,  the 
diameter  to  be  about  five  inches.  Inside  the 


62  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

box  there  is  a  shaft  with  iron  pins  passing- 
through  it  at  different  angles,  extending  about 
four  inches  from  the  shaft  in  each  direction. 

Suitable  bearings  for  all  these  can  be  at- 
tached to  each  end  of  the  box.  The  device 
can  be  supported  by  a  frame  work  resting  on 
the  floor,  and  placed  so  as  to  deliver  the  nubs 
directly  back  of  the  front  worker  of  the 
second  breaker.  The  feed  roll  may  be  driven 
from  the  shaft  of  the  doffer  on  the  end  oppo- 
site the  delivery  of  the  card.  The  brush  may 
be  driven  from  the  fancy  shaft  on  the  delivery 
side  and  the  inside  shaft  with  the  pins  can  be 
driven  with  either  belt  or  gear,  from  the 
brush  shaft. 

The  feed  roll  is  speeded  to  suit  the  required 
amount  of  nubs,  and  the  brush  is  set  high 
enough  to  free  the  nubs  from  the  feed  roll 
and  deliver  them  to  the  card.  The  inside  ar- 
rangement is  to  stir  the  nubs  in  the  box  and 
keep  them  constantly  in  contact  with  the  feed 
roll.  An  adjustable  strip  of  metal  should  be 
set  along  the  edge  of  the  feed  aperture  on  the 
delivery  side,  which  should  be  toward  the 
card.  The  feed  roll  and  inside  shaft  should 
turn  in  the  same  direction,  and  the  brush  in 
the  opposite  direction.  The  framework  Is- 
fastened  securely  to  the  floor  and  the  top 
braced  from  above  or  from  the  card  frame.  It 
will  readily  be  seen  that  this  arrangement 
makes  it  possible  to  keep  the  workers  of  the 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  6$ 

first  and  second  breakers  set  to  suit  the  best 
results  in  carding1  and  serves  to  retain  the  full 
size  of  the  nubs.  The  finisher  card  will  comb 
out  the  fibers  of  the  nub  sufficiently  to  make 
them  spin  well  into  the  thread. 

A  very  small  nub  giving  an  attractive,, 
though  subdued,  effect  can  be  made  as  fol- 
lows: Where  the  creel  instead  of  self  feed  is 
used  for  the  second  breaker,  fill  the  workers 
with  tallow  as  far  in  from  the  end  as  corre- 
sponds with  the  space  taken  by  three  or  four 
drawings  at  the  feed,  and  use  drawings  in  that 
space  of  a  color  of  the  nub  desired.  Where 
the  tallow  has  been  used  the  carding  effect 
will  be  destroyed,  and  the  stock  will  roll  inta 
small  nubs  which  will  be  delivered  to  the 
finisher  in  the  drawing.  The  effect  may  be 
regulated  by  the  number  of  drawings  used  and: 
the  width  of  the  tallow  insertion.  The  stock 
used  should  be  similar  to  that  used  for  other 
nub  effects,  and  the  drawings  made  separate 
from  the  regular  carding  and  kept  ready  for 
use  as  required.  On  account  of  the  small  size 
of  the  nubs,  strongly  contrasting  colors  are 
desirable. 

These  nubs  produce  very  good  effects  in 
dress  goods  and  other  fabrics  not  requiring 
much  gigging.  Elmo. 


64  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

Random  Roping 

Will  you  publish  in  the  Questions  and  An- 
swers Department  how  Random  roping  can 
be  made? 

Random  roping  can  be  made  with  a  creel 
on  the  finisher  in  conjunction  with  vibrating 
doffers.  Everything  must  be  adjusted  just 
right,  both  doffers  must  be  positive  in  their 
action  and  care  must  be  taken  to  have  the 
rings  occupy  their  required  space  and  position; 
then  the  rings  will  take  up  the  required  quan- 
tity of  stock  from  each  stripe.  Every  other 
drawing-in  creel  and  guide  is  of  a  different 
color,  say,  red  alternating  with  green,  etc. 
The  roping  will  have  at  certain  intervals  a 
clouded  appearance  and  then  grow  less  cloudy , 
approaching  almost  a  clear  color,  and  then 
gradually  reverse  until  the  opposite  color  pre- 
dominates. D.  R.  S. 


How  to  Mix  Wool  and  Shoddy 

We  are  getting  very  uneven  results  from 
wool  and  shoddy  mixes  and  I  would  like  to  get 
an  explanation  of  how  it  is  best  to  handle 
them  up  to  spinning.  .  Devol  (2129). 

In    the    mixing   of   wool    and    shoddy,    there 
is     nearly    always    trouble    arising    from    the^ 
tendency    of   the    latter   to   lag   behind   in    the 
picking     and     carding    processes,     causing    an 
irregularity  in  the  yarn,   and  not  infrequently 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  65 

serious  imperfections  in  the  cloth,  such  as 
streaky,  rowey  and  cockled  effects.  In  mix- 
ture effects  and  where  the  warp  and  filling 
are  of  contrasting  colors,  the  results  are  often 
very  unsatisfactory. 

However  carefully  the  stock  may  be  laid 
down  and  blended  in  the  picker  room,  when 
it  comes  from  the  machine  the  current  of  air 
accompanying  it  tends  to  carry  the  wool, 
which  is  the  lighter  stock,  to  the  farther  parts 
of  the  blow-room,  while  the  shoddy,  being 
heavier  from  the  grease  and  dirt  it  contains, 
falls  nearer  the  mouth  of  the  picker,  causing 
a  partial  separation  of  the  two  kinds  of  stock 
and  an  irregularity  in  the  mixture,  which  is 
to  some  extent  repeated  every  time  the  stock 
goes  through  the  machine.  As  a  result  some 
portions  of  the  lot  are  likely  to  go  to  the 
cards  with  a  greater  percentage  of  shoddy 
than  others. 

When  the  stock  comes  to  the  cards,  the 
spike-apron  of  the  self-feed  takes  the  long 
stock  more  readily  than  the  short,  so  that 
there  is  a  tendency  for  the  shoddy'  to  drop 
back,  whereby  the  percentage  of  this  stock  is 
increased  as  the  amount  of  stock  in  the  feed 
gets  low.  To  remedy  the  difficulty  in  the 
picker  room,  various  plans  have  been  adopted, 
none  of  which  wholly  overcome  the  trouble. 
One  plan  is  to  hang  a  wooden  apron  in  front 
of  the  picker  at  an  angle  to  turn  the  stock  to 


66  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

the  floor,  not  allowing  the  wool  to  fly  to  the 
outer  parts  of  the  room.  Another  good  idea 
is  to  have  the  blow-room  as  small  as  possible, 
to  do  the  work  conveniently,  thus  giving  less 
room  for  the  wool  to  get  away  from  the 
shoddy.  After  striking  the  walls  of  the  room 
it  is  forced  to  fall  back  where  the  shorter 
stock  is  deposited,  thus  avoiding  a  separation. 
In  carding  it  is  a  good  plan  to  keep  the  self- 
feeds  well  filled,  whereby  more  uniform  re- 
sults are  obtained  than  if  the  stock  is  allowed 
to  run  low  in  them.  The  writer  was  once 
called  to  a  position  where  they  were  having 
serious  trouble  from  rowey  goods  caused  by 
the  tendency  to  separation  above  referred  to. 
We  adopted  a  plan  that  entirely  overcame  the 
difficulty.  We  first  made  a  mixture  of  20  per 
cent,  of  wool  and  80  per  cent,  of  shoddy  and 
ran  it  through  a  breaker  card.  The  thorough 
mixing  of  this  amount  of  wool  with  the 
shoddy  put  it  into  a  condition  that  insured  a 
more  uniform  mixture  in  the  picker  room  and 
did  away  entirely  writh  the  tendency  to  sep- 
arate in. the  self  feed.  The  fibers  of  shoddy 
were  so  thoroughly  combined  with  those  of 
the  wool  that  they  were  carried  along  with 
greater  uniformity,  both  in  the  picking  and 
the  carding.  One  may  get  the  same  result  by 
using  fleeced  shoddy,  which  is  a  stock  simi- 
larly prepared  by  the  shoddy  manufacturer. 
The  shoddy  maker  sometimes  makes  this  com- 


CARDING  AND   SPINNING  6/ 

bination  with  stock  that  is  too  short  to  dis- 
pose of  to  advantage.  The  woolen  manufac- 
turer is  often  led  to  believe  that  fleeced  shoddy 
is  intended  to  deceive  him,  but  it  is  really  to- 
his  advantage  if  procured  at  a  reasonable 
figure. 

Where  one  has  not  the  machinery  to  pre- 
pare the  stock  as  suggested,  he  may  get  good 
results  by  selecting  his  shoddy,  and  then  ar- 
ranging with  the  party  to  combine  with  it  the 
desirable  percentage  of  wool.  This  the  shoddy 
manufacturer  can  easily  do,  and  one  can  know 
he  is  getting  just  what  he  pays  for.  If  one 
were  using  a  shoddy  costing  16  cents  per 
pound,  he  might,  hesitate  about  paying  24 
cents,  because  it  seemed  excessive;  but  that  is 
about  what  the  combination  would  cost  if 
made  with  20  per  cent,  of  wool  at  55  cents  per 
pound.  It  would  be  just  as  cheap,  since  the 
wool  is  simply  added  first  instead  of  later  in 
the  picker  room,  and  the  advantage  of  this 
plan  is  without  question.  We  adopted  this 
plan  on  a  line  of  goods  in  which  we  used  all 
of  our  short  waste  and  shoddy,  and  it  gave  ex- 
cellent results,  where  we  had  been  up  against 
all  kinds  of  trouble  generally  accompanying 
such  low  grade  mixtures.  If  cotton  is  used  in 
connection  with  wool  and  shoddy,  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  combine  the  cotton  with  the  shoddy; 
as  the  heavy  shoddy  and  the  light  cotton  pro- 
duce a  mixture  that  will  keep  its  place  with 


68  KINKS    ON   WOOL 

the  wool  in  the  picker  room,  and  likewise  be 
beneficial  in  the  carding  and  spining.  Any 
percentage  of  long  stock  may  be  used  with  the 
shoddy,  even  5  or  10  per  cent,  being  an  ad- 
vantage, but  20  per  cent,  or  more  will  give  the 
best  results. 

It  will  be  readily  seen  that  the  mixture 
gives  a  loftiness  to  the  stock  that  will  cause  it 
to  go  along  with  the  wool  more  uniformly  in 
picking.  When  it  comes  to  the  feeding  to  the 
cards,  the  spike-apron  takes  hold  of  the  wool 
fibers,  and  the  shoddy  is  so  thoroughly  com- 
bined with  them  that  they  cannot  get  away, 
as  in  the  case  when  the  shoddy  is  only  com- 
bined with  the  wool  in  the  picking.  By  a  little 
careful  calculation,  the  final  mixture  may  con- 
tain the  desired  percentage  of  short  stock,  and 
the  results  obtained  are  well  worth  the 
trouble.  A  second  hand  breaker  card  can  be 
procured  for  a  song,  and  if  placed  near  the 
other  carding  or  picking  machinery,  the  cost 
of  running  it  is  small.  If  it  is  desired  to  get 
similar  results  at  less  cost,  a  good  selection  of 
long  stock,  such  as  garnetted  worsted,  or  the 
like,  may  be  used  with  the  shoddy;  but  care 
must  be  taken  to  have  a  good  live  stock,  not 
too  coarse.  Coarse  or  wiry  fibers  will  cause 
twitty  yarn  by  slipping  in  the  spinning. 

Elmo. 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  69 

Yarn  Numbering 

Please  state  the  relation  between  the  wor- 
sted and  cut  systems  of  yarn  numbering. 
What  would  2-20  cut  yarn  be  equivalent  to  by 
the  worsted  system?  Broome  (358). 

The  Simplex  Yarn  Tables  (published  by 
Textile  World  Record,  price  50  cents)  give  an 
explanation  of  the  basis  of  each  system  and 
also  enables  one  to  find  the  equivalent  of  any 
system  in  the  units  of  the  others.  No.  1  wor- 
sted =  2-3  cotton;  1.86  linen  lea  or  woolen 
cut;  .35  run.  No.  1  linen  lea  or  woolen  cut  — 
.535  worsted;  .357  cotton;  .1875  run.  From 
this  it  is  clear  that  No.  2-20  cut  is  equal  to 
single  10  cut  or  No.  5.35  worsted. 

As  all  our  systems  of  yarn  numbering  are 
based  upon  the  fixed  weight  of  one  pound, 
their  proportions  are  expressed  by  the  length 
of  the  skeins  used  for  them.  Thus:  Linen  or 
woolen  cut,  300  yards;  worsted,  560  yards; 
cotton,  840  yards;  woolen  run,  1,600  yards. 


Changing  Ring  Doffers  on  Woolen  Cards 

We  have  four  sets  of  48-inch  woolen  cards 
with  two  doffers.  We  are  taking  off  36  ends 
of  roving,  18  ends  on  each  spool  and  two  waste 
ends.  We  want  to  take  off  54  ends  and  use  3 
spools.  The  size  of  the  roving  is  about  5/8 
run,  made  from  horse  blanket  stock.  What 
changes  will  be  necessary  to  get  the  best  re- 
sults? Hampshire  (967). 


7O  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

In  order  to  put  54  ends  on  a  48-inch  card, 
or  3  spools  of  18  ends  each,  it  would  be  nec- 
essary to  put  27  rings  and  1  waste  ring  on 
each  doffer.  There  should  be  27  top  rings, 
13/16  inches  wide,  besides  1  wide  ring  to  carry 
waste  end.  The  bottom  doffer  should  have  27 
rings,  14/16  inches  wide,  and  1  wide  waste 
ring.  On  the  short  side  of  the  Apperly  feed  a 
1  1/8-inch  waste  ring  should  be  used;  on  the 
long  side  a  1  5/16-inch  waste  ring,  as  on  this 
side  the  stock  is  more  likely  to  bunch  in.  The 
lickerin  has  a  better  chance  to  comb  out  the 
stock  on  the  short  side  of  the  feed.  On  the 
short  side  the  feed  rolls  hold  the  fibers  while 
the  latter  are  being  combed  out  by  the  licker- 
in; on  the  long  side  the  feed  rolls  let  go 
earlier.  For  these  reasons  it  is  better  to  use 
a  1  1/8-inch  waste  ring  on  the  short  side  of 
the  feed  and  a  1  5/16-inch  ring  on  the  long 
side.  Most  carders  use  1  1/2  or  2-inch  side 
rings.  We  have  used  all  sizes  from  1  1/4  to 
2-inch,  but  the  best  results  are  obtained  from 
the  2-inch  outside  rings.  When  more  than  48 
ends  are  taken  from  the  doffers  a  narrower 
outside  ring  is  used.  A  good  rule  to  follow  is 

27  rings,   13/16  inch  equal  21   15/16   inches. 

27"rings,   14/16   inch  equal   23    10/16  inches. 

2  rings,  1  2/16  and  1  5/16  inch  equal 
.2  7/16  inches. 

Total,    48   inches. 

One    and   one-half   and    1    9/16-inch    outside 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  71 

rings  can  be  used.  This  will  make  both  out- 
side rings  near  the  same  size  and  they  will 
work  fully  as  well. 

The  best  way  to  run  the  ends  is  to  take  9 
outside  ends  from  each  side  of  top  doffer  to 
top  drum,  making  18  in  all.  The  center  9  ends 
pass  to  the  center  of  the  middle  drum;  the  18 
ends  on  center  of  bottom  doffer,  to  bottom 
drum;  the  other  9  ends  on  outside  of  bottom 
doffer,  to  center  drum  of  spool  stand.  This 
may  look  like  a  Chinese  puzzle,  but  if  the 
stock  is  good  it  works  very  well;  if  the  stock 
is  poor,  the  three-spool  stand  is  a  nuisance. 
A  three-spool  stand  should  never  be  used  on 
heavy  work.  As  "Hampshire's"  work  is  5/8 
run  on  the  card,  48  rings  are  all  that  should 
be  used.  For  that  size  the  rings  should  not  be 
less  than  7/8  and  1  inch  wide.  By  using  nar- 
rower rings  the  stock  is  packed  tight  on  the 
ring  to  get  the  weight  and  it  is  hard  for  the 
wipe  roll  to  take  it  from  the  doffer.  This 
often  causes  twits  and  bad  places  in  the  rov- 
ing, makes  the  work  go  bad  on  the  card  and 
all  through  the  mill. 

It  would  be  a  good  plan  to  change  the  mule 
to  take  24-end  spools  and  use  24  ends  on  each 
doffer  with  outside  rings.  If  this  is  not  advis- 
able it  might  be  well  to  put  the  card  in  good 
shape  and  increase  the  speed  of  the  doffer.  A 
card  on  5/8-run  work  should  take  off  from 
400  to  600  pounds  of  stock  a  day.  Another 


72  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

way  of  increasing1  production  is  to  increase  the 
size  of  the  doffers.  An  increase  of  3  inches  in 
the  diameter  of  the  doffer  would  increase  the 
production  50  per  cent.  If  doffers  9  inches  in 
diameter  running  20  revolutions  a  minute  and 
taking  off  300  pounds  of  stock  a  day  are  ex- 
changed for  doffers  12  inches  in  diameter  and 
running  20  revolutions  a  minute,  the  produc- 
tion would  be  increased  to  450  pounds  per 
day,  a  gain  of  50  per  cent.  The  larger  the 
doffer  the  better  the  work  as  the  cylinder  has 
more  surface  to  lay  the  stock  on.  Rogers. 

Changing-  the  number  of  ends  from  36  to 
54  will  necessitate  the  use  of  narrower  rings 
and  probably  have  the  effect  of  crowding-  the 
cards  in  getting  the  heavy  roving  required  for 
5/8-run  yarn.  On  horse  blanket  stock  and 
similar  material,  the  top  doffer  will  often  col- 
lect more  stock  than  the  bottom  doffer,  mak- 
ing it  necessary  to  run  the  former  faster.  To 
get  54  ends  the  rings  can  be  arranged  as  fol- 
lows: 

2  waste  rings,  1  1/4  inch. 
27  top  rings,  13/16  inch. 
27  bottom  rings,  14/16  inch. 

When  using  1  1/2-inch  waste  rings  it  is  ad- 
visable instead  of  having  a  cotton  or  woolen 
web  on  the  Apperly  to  use  a  leather  band 
with  wire  set  in  for  that  purpose  the  width  of 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  73 

the  webbing.  The  card  will  have  to  carry 
more  stock  in  supplying  the  narrow  rings. 
The  ring  doffers  must  be  kept  in  good  condi- 
tion and  points  kept  clear,  by  having  dickeys 
put  on  the  rings  or  by  having  wire  wipe  rolls 
set  to  the  rings  just  so  they  will  clear  the 
points.  It  is  preferable  to  have  these  rolls 
covered  with  a  medium  wire  about  3/16  inch 
long  with  a  knee  so  that  it  will  not  stand  up 
straight.  It  is  advisable  to  have  the  wire  set 
in  leather. 

In  running  the  dickeys  the  surface  speed 
should  be  high  enough  to  keep  the  points 
clear  without  having  to  set  hard  on  the  rings. 
If  fancy  wire  is  used  on  a  2-inch  dickey  with 
a  12-inch  doffer  running  20  turns,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  run  the  dickey  about  45  turns. 

Ironside. 

On  the  top  doffer  the  use  of  13 /16-inch 
rings  would  be  advisable,  making  a  total 
length  21  15/16  inches.  On  the  bottom  doffer 
use  14/16-inch  rings,  making  the  total  length 
23  10/16  inches.  This  would  leave  about  1  1/4 
inches  for  each  waste  end  and  45  9/16  inches 
for  the  54  regular  ends,  or  27  ends  to  each 
doffer.  A  3 -spool  stand  will  be  required  to 
bring  the  roving  on  3  spools  of  18  ends  each; 
the  center  spool  receiving  9  ends  from  each 
doffer;  this  would  necessitate  an  increase  of 
stock  on  the  breakers. 


.74  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

In  placing  rings  on  the  doffer  the  wide  ring 
must  be  put  on  the  top  doffer  on  the  wide  side 
of  the  feed.  Newport. 


Variation  Allowed  in  Spinning  Wool  Yarn 

In  working  IOWT  shoddy  work,  a  stock  con- 
taining a  large  percentage  of  clean  and  dirty 
card  waste,  the  dirty  card  waste,  however, 
being  thoroughly  cleaned  and  dusted  before 
used,  what  variation  would  it  be  considered 
fair  to  allow  the  carder  on  his  yarns,  taking, 
for  instance,  165  grains  or  1  15/16  runs  and 
105  grains  or  1  1/16  runs?  We  would  also 
like  to  have  the  same  question  answered  in 
regard  to  yarns  ranging  from  90  to  105  grains, 
;and  made  of  clean,  low  grade  stocks  which 
contain  either  a  small  percentage  of  cotton  or 
wool  as  a  basis. 

In  order  that  you  may  be  able  to  judge  bet- 
ter and  give  a  more  accurate  answer  we  give 
you  the  following  information  regarding  our 
•equipment:  Our  picker  house  is  equipped  with 
-a  Sargent  duster  and  a  Fearnaught  picker,  the 
mixes  being  run  through  the  picker  three 
times  in  order  to  insure  proper  mixing.  The 
oard  room  contains  six  sets  of  cards,  practi- 
cally new  clothing  on  all,  with  Bramwell  feeds 
and  Apperly  feeds  between  the  first  and  second 
breakers,  the  second  breaker  and  finisher 
hitched  together,  and  Barker  rubs  on  finisher. 

Carder  (1989). 

For  the  165  grains,  ten  grains  variation 
would  be  the  extreme.  For  the  105  grains, 
•eight  grains  ought  to  cover  the  variation.  For 
the  clean  stock,  90  to  105  grains,  four  or  five 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  75 

grains  ought  to  be  enough  variation.  In  mak- 
ing this  statement  I  only  estimate  the  varia- 
tion at  the  card;  the  mule  is  not  considered. 

Lytton. 


Production  and  Consumption  of  Wool 

If  you  know  of  any  statistics  showing  the 
number  of  spindles  in  the  world's  wool  indus- 
try and  the  production  and  consumption  of 
wool  will  you  kindly  print  them? 

Record   (2247). 

An  interesting  estimate  of  the  world's  pro- 
duction and  consumption  of  wool  appeared  in 
a  recent  issue  of  Dalgety's  Review.  The  wool 
spindles  in  all  countries  were  given  as  follows: 

England    spindles   6,684,52b 

Germany        5,084,069 

France        3,078,013 

Austria       850,000 

United  States    4,021,098 

Belgium        656,677 

Russia      800,000 

Italy        250,000 

Spain      150,000 

Japan        400,000 

Increase  in  former  coun- 
tries and  number  of 
spindles  in  other  coun- 
tries   ' 1,025,625 


Total       23,000,008 

ment  on  the  wool  consuming  capacity  of  these 

The  Review  then  makes  the  following  com- 
spindles  and  the  actual  supply: 


76     '  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

In  estimating  1,025,625  spindles,  we  take 
into  consideration  an  increase  in  spindles 
throughout  the  entire  world  since  1907.  Tak- 
ing these  23,000,000  spindles  in  the  whole 
world,  and  assuming  that  each  spindle  pro- 
duces about  1.32  Ibs.  per  week — 23,000,000  X 
1.32  Ibs.  =  30,360,000  Ibs.,  and  for  52  weeks — 
30,360,000  Ibs.  X  52  =  1,578,720,000  Ibs. 

It  must  not  be  forgotten,  however,  that  in 
these  1,578,720,000  Ibs.  of  yarns  produced 
there  are  a  large  number  of  carded  yarns  in 
which  cotton,  silk,  noils  and  waste  enter  in  a 
certain  proportion.  Supposing  that  489,600,- 
000  Ibs.  of  these  yarns  are  produced  with 
wastes  and  other  kinds  of  material.  This 
means  that  there  is  an  annual  production  of 
.1,089,120,000  Ibs.  of  combed  yarns. 

Taking  then  the  production  of  greasy  wool: 

Pounds. 
The  Argentine  produces  about.  .       584,000,000 

Australia       1,102,000,000 

Africa        160,000,000 

Asia       216,000,000 

Europe        811,000,000 

North  America   339,000,000 


Total        i 3,212,000,000 

The  average  yield  of  thoroughly  washed 
wool  can  be  stimated  at  40  per  cent,  of  3,212,- 
000,000  Ibs.  or  1,284,800,000  Ibs.  clean  scoured 
wool.  It  seems  then  that  consumption  i& 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  77 

about  equal  to  production  after  allowing  for 
the  weight  of  the  waste  in  the  combing  proc- 
ess, viz.,  noils. 


Size  of  Wire 

Can  you  give  us  information  or  some  sort  of 
a  table  showing  the  best  card-clothing  wire 
for  fine  and  coarse  stock?  Field  (927). 

The  way  the  batches  come  along  now  in 
most  woolen  card  rooms  makes  it  a  hard  task 
to  name  just  the  right  size  wire  that  would  be 
best  for  general  use.  One  batch  may  be  a 
nice,  fine  all-wool  lot;  the  next  may  be  a  mix- 
ture of  very  coarse  wool  and  shoddy,  and  the 
next  of  fine  wool  and  shoddy,  or  it  may  be  a 
silk  mix  or  a  hair  mix,  etc.  The  carder  hardly 
knows  what  will  go  on  next.  If  batches  of  the  - 
same  quality  could  follow  each  other,  much 
better  and  more  even  roping  could  be  made 
and  would  save  the  carded  a  good  deal  of 
trouble  and  much  valuable  time  and  waste 
would  be  saved  to  the  interest  of  the  company. 
When  batches  keep  jumping  from  one  run  to 
six  runs  and  vice  versa,  it  is  no  wonder  there 
is  so  much  trouble  with  uneven  roping. 

When  the  carder  has  a  set  of  cards  on  a 
500-pound  lot,  5-run  warp  running  just  to  suit 
him,  the  lot  is  nearly  run  out,  and  the  next 
lot  may  be  2  1/2-run  coarse  wool  and  shoddy 
or  some  other  kind  much  different  from  the 


78  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

5-run  lot.  I  should  recommend  the  following 
scale  and  number  of  wire  for  a  set  of  cards 
for.  general  run  of  work: 

FIRST    BREAKER 

Feed  rolls,  if  not  steel  rings,  which  are  de- 
cidedly the  best. 

Feed  rolls,  top  and  bottom,  No.  18  convex  or 
diamond  point,  straight  steel  wire. 

Tumbler,  No.    33   wire,   steel. 

First  two  workers,  No.  32,  the  remainder 
No.  34  .steel  wire. 

Strippers,  No.   32,  steel  wire. 

Cylinder,   No.    33,   the  sheets  steel  wire 

Doffer,  No.  33,  steel  wire. 

Fancy,  No.   30,  sheets  or  filleting,  steel  wire 

SECOND   BREAKER 

Feed  rolls,  top  and  bottom  for  creels,  No. 
18,  convex  or  diamond  point  straight  steel 
wire. 

Leader-in,  No.   24,  diamond  point  steel  wire. 

Tumbler,  No.   33,  steel  wire. 

Two  workers,  No.  34,  the  remainder  No.   35. 

Strippers,  No.   32. 

Cylinder,  No.   34,  sheets. 

Doffer,   No.    34. 

Fancy,  No.   32,  sheets  or  filleting. 

FINISHER 

Apperly  feed  rolls,  No.  24  bottom,  and  No. 
26  top,  diamond  point  straight  steel  wire. 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  79 

Leader-in,  No.   24,  diamond  point  steel  wire. 
Tumbler,   No.   34. 

First  two  workers,  No.  35,  the  remainder 
No.  36. 

Strippers,  No.   34. 
Cylinder,   No.    35,   sheets. 
Ring    doffer,    No.    35. 
Fancy,   No.   34,  filleting. 

CARD    CLOTHING    FOR   A   SET    OF   CARDS    ON" 
COARSE   STOCK 

If  a  set  of  cards  is  running"  permanently  on 
coarse  wool,  or  coarse  wool  and  shoddy  mixed,. 
the  numbers  of  wire  should  be: 

FIRST    BREAKER 

Feed  rolls,  if  not  steel  rings,  No.  18,  convex 
wire. 

Tumbler,  No.   32. 

Two  workers,   No.   30,  the  others  No.   32. 

Strippers,   No.    30. 

Cylinder  sheets,  No.   32. 

Doffer,  No.    32. 

Fancy,  No.   30. 

SECOND   BREAKER 

Feed  rolls,  No.   18,   convex  or  diamond  point 
wire,  straight  tooth. 
Leader-in,  No.   24. 
Tumbler,  No.  32,  steel  wire. 
Workers,   No.    33. 
Strippers,   No.    30. 


8o  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

Cylinder,   No.    33,   sheets. 

Fancy,  No.   32,  sheets  or  filleting. 

Doffer,  No.   33. 

FINISHER 

Bottom    rolls   Apperly    feed,    No.    18,    convex 
or   diamond   point  wire,    straight  tooth. 

Top    rolls    Apperly    feed,    No.    18,    convex   or 
diamond  point   wire,   straight  tooth. 

Leader-in,    No.    24. 

Tumbler,    No.    34. 

Workers,   No.    34. 

Strippers,   No.    32. 

Cylinder,    No.    34,   sheets. 

Ring  doffers,   No.    34. 

Fancy,   No.   33,  filleting. 

Sam   Driver. 


Putting  on  Card  Clothing 

I  would  like  information  on  putting  on  card 
clothing  as  regards  the  apparatus  required  and 
the  method  of  doing  the  work. 

Deary    (1042). 

It  is  necessary  that  every  card  room  should 
be  provided  with  a  suitable  frame  and  drum 
for  winding  on  filleting.  It  is  important  that 
it  should  be  wound  on  with  as  even  a  tension 
as  possible.  The  frame  should  be  made 
strong  and  wide  enough  so  that  the  bearings 
of  whatever  is  being  covered  will  set  firmly 
in  the  bearings  of  the  frame.  Place  collars 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  QT 

on  the  shafts  so  that  when  winding  on  fillet- 
ing they  will  not  vibrate.  Bolt  on  the  frame 
a  slotted  bracket  with  a  long  stud  and  a  small 
gear,  with  crank  attached.  Place  a  large  gear 
on  the  shaft  of  whatever  is  to  be  covered,  and 
gear  into  the  small  gear.  By  winding  this 
way  a  much  steadier  motion  and  more  even 
tension  can  be  had  than  with  a  crank  at- 
tached to  the  end  of  the  shaft. 

The  drum,  if  for  a  48-inch  card  with  doffer 
48  by  30,  should  be  made  54  inches  wide  and 
31  inches  in  diameter.  The  drum  must  be 
turned  off  true  and  smooth  so  that  the  backs 
of  the  card  teeth  will  not  get  bulged.  A  stout 
frame  must  be  built  for  the  drum  and  bolted 
to  the  floor. 

A  piece  of  belt  1  1/2  inches  wide,  with  small 
clamp  attached,  can  be  fastened  to  one  end 
of  the  drum,  another  belt  can  be  fastened  on 
the  floor  on  the  other  end  and  brought  over 
the  drum  for  friction.  Some  have  the  drum 
placed  in  front  of  the  grinding  frame,  with  a 
suitable  bearing  to  bolt  on  the  frame.  When 
putting  on  filleting  it  should  be  wound  on  the 
drum  quite  tight.  This  will  press  and  keep 
the  backs  of  card  wire  in  their  proper  place. 
The  roll  must  be  turned  with  a  steady  and 
even  motion  to  keep  an  even  tension. 

The  clothing  should  be  wound  on  as  tight  as 
it  will  bear;  if  not,  it  will  be  apt  to  get  loose 


82  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

and    strike   the    cylinder   and    cause   bad   work 
and  be  a  source  of  trouble  all  the  time. 

D.  R.  S. 


Speed  and  Size  of  Pulleys 

Please  give  me  a  simple  rule  for  calculating 
the  speed  and  size  of  direct  connected  pulleys? 

Manitoba  (450). 

Suppose  two  pulleys,  A  and  B,  are  con- 
nected by  a  belt.  Then: 

Diam.  of  A  X  speed  of  A  =  diam.  of  B  X 
speed  of  B. 

Prom   this  it  follows  that: 

Diam.  of  A  =  (diam.  of  B  X  speed  of  B)  -=- 
speed  A. 

Also  that: 

Speed  of  A  =  (diam.  of  B  X  speed  of  B)  -r- 
diam.  of  A. 

Ex.  A  12-inch  pulley  running  150  r.  p.  m. 
drives  another  pulley  225  r.  p.  m. 

Find  the  size  of  the  last  named  pulley. 

(12  X  150)  -r-  225  =  8  inches,  diam.  of 
pulley  running  225  r.  p.  m. 

Ex.  A  15-inch  pulley  running  80  r.  p.  m. 
drives  a  10-inch  pulley.  Find  the  speed  of  the 
last-named  pulley. 

(15  X  80)  -T-  10  =  120  r.  p.  m.  of  10-inch 
pulley. 

The  circumference  may  be  used  in  place  of 
the  diameter  if  desired. 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  83 

Core  Yarn 

Recently  we  have  tried  some  experiments 
with  a  yarn  composed  of  a  cotton  thread  with 
a  wool  covering.  These  have  not  been  wholly 
successful  and  if  you  have  any  information 
bearing  on  this  work  will  you  let  me  know 
how  it  should  be  done? 

Burlington   (2262). 

There  is  no  novelty  in  the  idea  of  making 
wool  yarn  with  a  cotton  core.  As  far  back 
as  1878  two  Leeds  men  patented  provision- 
ally a  process  for  "embedding  by  rolling  or 
otherwise  an  additional  twisted  thread  in  an 
unspun  condenser  sliver,  the  combined  thread 
being  wound  upon  a  bobbin  without  any 
twist  and  used  as  a  weft  in  weaving  soft  and 
strong  fabrics."  In  1901  two  Halifax  (Eng.) 
men  took  out  a  patent  for  a  yarn  consisting 
of  "a  sliver  from  a  condenser  rubbed  round  a 
core  of  cotton,  the  combined  thread  being 
wound  on  a  condenser  bobbin  and  spun  in  the 
ordinary  way."  There  have  also  been  pat- 
ented  schemes  for  covering  a  core  of  twisted 
paper  with  wool  in  a  similar  manner  and  for 
making  cotton  core  yarn  by  drawing  the  cot- 
ton thread  diagonally  across  the  rings  of  the^ 
ring  doffers,  in  place  of  running  the  thread 
and  sliver  side  by  side.  There  have  been 
plenty  of  other  attempts  made  in  Yorkshire 
and  yarns  produced  in  this  manner  have  been 
seen  and  tried  often.  Twenty  years  ago  a 


84  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

great  many  woolen  men  were  puzzling  over 
the  problem  of  how  to  do  away  with  the  ne- 
cessity for  a  separate  twisting  of  the  cotton 
and  the  wool,  but  the  twisting  method  is  prac- 
tically universal  today.  Cotton  is  very  exten- 
sively used  as  a  supporting  thread  in  the 
cheap  carded  woolens  made  in  the  Colne  Val- 
ley. It  is  not  used  as  a  core,  but  as  a  tie 
thread.  The  wool  sliver  is  spun  on  the  mule 
cop  and  the  two  are  brought  together  upon 
the  ring  twisting  frame. 

Following  are  the  experiences  of  two  emi- 
nently practical  men  in  making  core  yarn: 

Says  A:  The  two  ways  I  remember  were: 

"1st.  Cotton  spools  placed  under  the  con- 
denser, the  ends  being  led  through  the  divider 
with  the  soft  sliver.  Thread  and  sliver  were 
rubbed  together  and  run  on  the  bobbins  in  the 
usual  way. 

"2d.  The  condenser  bobbins  were  taken 
direct  to  the  twisting  frame  and  the  soft 
sliver  was  twisted  with  the  cotton  thread. 

"Both  methods  were  failures  because  a 
woolen  thread  is  no  good  unless  it  is  drawn 
during  spinning." 

Says  B:  "The  drawback  to  running  the  cot- 
ton and  woolen  threads  together  on  the  mule 
is  that  you  cannot  draw  the  woolen  when  the 
cotton  passes  through  the  rollers  at  the  same 
time.  You  do  not  get  as  nice  or  as  strong  a 
yarn  as  one  that  is  drawn  a  little  in  the  spin- 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  £ 

ning.  Another  fault  is  that  there  is  too  much 
space  on  the  mule  between  the  rollers  and  the 
spindle  top,  consequently  the  yarn  has  a  tend- 
ency to  show  soft  places  owing  to  the  greater 
thickness  and  heaviness  of  the  woolen." 

The  theoretical  purpose  of  using  the  cotton 
as  a  core  instead  of  a  companion  thread  is  to 
make  the  former  less  conspicuous  in  the  fin- 
ished cloth.  I  send  a  sample  or  two  of  Colne 
Valley  tweed  to  correct  any  impression  that  a 
two-fold  cotton  and  woolen  thread  necessarily 
proclaims  its  character  upon  the  surface.  It 
will  be  agreed  by  anyone  that  whether  judged 
by  touch  or  sight  the  cotton  support  is  well 
hidden  in  the  softer  cloth. 

"Twisting  is  an  extra,"  to  continue  my  quo- 
tation from  A,  "but  that  is  done  very  cheaply 
and  the  thread  is  good  in  every  way.  You  can 
mill  the  cloth  to  get  a  good  cover,  raise  it  if 
necessary  and  use  it  pretty  roughly  and  still 
have  a  sound  piece  of  goods.  Or  you  can 
alter  your  blend  and  ideas.  You  can  make 
the  cotton  thread  light  in  color  and  get  fine 
worsted-twist-looking  patterns  in  another 
finish." 

Seeking  further  experiences  of  the  produc- 
tion of  cotton  core  yarn  I  turned  to  the  paten- 
tee of  a  process  for  wrapping  an  untwisted 
worsted  sliver  spirally  round  a  central  thread 
of  cotton.  The  work  was  done  on  an  ordinary 
flyer  drawing  and  twisting  frame,  permitting 


86  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

the  sliver  to  be  reduced  to  the  desired  thin- 
ness. The  cotton  was  led  through  the  nip  of 
the  front  drawing  rollers  to  one  side  of  the 
untwisted  sliver  and  was  then  drawn  diagon- 
ally across  the  front  of  the  rollers,  close  to 
the  nip  and  thence  down  to  the  spindles.  The 
path  of  the  cotton  was  kept  close  to  the  nip  to 
avoid  twisting  the  worsted,  the  intention  be- 
liind  the  whole  operation  being  the  production 
of  a  yarn  which  should  not  shrink  unequally 
and  raise  knots  and  lumps  in  the  fabric  under 
the  hands  of  the  cloth  finisher.  The  patent 
has  been  allowed  to  lapse,  but  as  Mr.  Brog- 
den's  experience  may  be  useful,  I  explain  that 
the  object  of  the  experiment  was  the  produc- 
tion of  khaki  cotton-faced  drills  with  a  wool 
back.  The  worsted  sliver  used  was  fine  me- 
rino and  the  cotton  core  a  good  Egyptian. 
The  warp  of  the  cloth  was  Egyptian  cotton 
also  and  without  great  difficulty  a  smart  cot- 
ton-faced khaki  drill  fulfilling  Government 
tests  was  produced.  The  maker  was  conscious 
of  certain  defects  in  the  fabric  and  the  Gov- 
ernment experts  found  these  out.  The  avoid- 
ance of  twist  in  the  sliver  did  not  entirely  pre- 
vent inequality  of  shrinkage.  Worse  still,  the 
wool  back  did  not  wear  well.  Where  creases 
were  formed  in  wear  the  sliver  was  soon 
rubbed  off  the  filling,  leaving  thin  streaks  in 
the  garment.  It  is  not  improbable  that  carded 
woolen  sliver  which  has  only  been  rubbed  on 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  87 

a  cotton  core  will  also  soon  be  rubbed  off  and 
the  contingency  deserves  to  be  reckoned  with 
and  observed. 

Pushing  inquiry  further  afield,  I  sought  the 
advice  of  a  silk  man  who  in  his  own  time  has 
been  a  bold  experimenter.  He  had  heard  of  a 
process,  applied  to  silk  and  not  necessarily  in- 
applicable to  wool,  in  which  a  silk  roving  was 
twisted  round  a  cotton  thread  upon  a  twisting 
frame.  Two  rollers  were  used,  one  delivering 
silk,  one  cotton,  the  silk  coming  the  faster. 
The  two  were  passed  to  a  spindle  having  a 
double  flyer  and  set  at  such  an  angle  that  only 
the  roving  came  in  contact  with  the  cotton  at 
the  point  at  which  the  bobbin  was  practically 
reached.  He  had  examined  also  a  collection 
of  samples  in  which  thrown  silk  had  been 
twisted  round  a  cotton  core  to  make  a  sort  of 
"rolled-gold"  silk  poplin  and  in  which  also 
thrown  silk  was  twisted  around  flexible  wire 
to  make  onde  and  spiral  effects.  It  is  clear 
that  the  production  of  core  yarn  has  attracted 
notice  in  widely  different  directions.  To  name 
one  other,  one  might  refer  casually  to  the  dif- 
ferent means  taken  for  producing  ropes  with 
cores  of  steel  or  strong  fibrous  materials. 

James  Strand. 


Broken  Drawing  on  Breakers 

Can  you  give  me  a  reason  for  broken  draw- 
ing on  the  breakers?  Foss    (959). 


OS  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

There  are  many  causes  for  the  breaking  of 
drawings.  The  doffer  may  be  running  too 
fast,  in  which  case  a  reduction  of  speed  would 
be  to  the  advantage  of  the  work  and  would 
also  tend  to  increase  the  strength  of  the  draw- 
ing. The  doffer  comb  may  have  been  striking 
and  been  worn  rough  or  it  may  need  cleaning. 
Drawing  may  also  break  by  being  stripped  too- 
far  below  the  center  of  the  doffer.  This  may 
be  remedied  by  raising  the  stroke  of  the  comb. 

Sometimes  the  drawing  breaks  down  from 
too  great  a  draft  on  the  side  drawing,  in  which 
case  the  end  drawing  will  break  as  it  leaves 
the  doffer  on  the  farthest  end  from  the  draw- 
ing rolls.  Remedy:  reduce  the  speed  of  the 
rolls.  If  the  doffer  gets  dull,  rough  or  out  of 
true,  the  drawing  will  break  down. 

There  are  various  ways  of  supporting  the 
drawing  as  it  passes  to  the  rolls.  On  low  stock 
it  is  a  good  idea  to  place  a  narrow  apron 
under  the  comb,  the  same  as  for  the  Kershaw 
and  Scotch  feeds,  and  driven  from  the  side 
drawing  shaft. 

Sometimes  the  short  and  long  stock  is  not 
blended  and  picked  right;  this  often  causes 
a  breaking  of  the  drawing.  Too  heavy  a  feed 
making  the  drawing  heavier  at  times  than  at 
others  may  be  the  cause.  The  comb  may  be 
too  high  or  too  low,  too  fast  or  too  slow.  Have 
good  stripper  belts  and  keep  them  tight  and 
clean.  When  the  side  drawing  breaks  down 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  89 

often  extra  work  and  waste  results.  Too  much 
waste  in  the  feed  is  another  cause;  also  the 
stock  getting  too  low  or  too  high.  If  the  draw- 
ing- falls  down  raise  the  comb;  if  it  pulls  too 
tight,  lower  the  comb.  The  center  of  the 
stroke  of  the  comb  should  be  a  little  above 
the  center  of  the  doffer.  On  long  stock  it  is 
sometimes  necessary  to  have  a  longer  down- 
stroke  and  on  short  stock  a  longer  up-stroke. 
Set  the  comb  as  close  to  the  doffer  as  it  can 
be  and  not  strike,  and  keep  the  comb  teeth 
free  from  grease. 

All  kinds  of  supports  are  used  to  keep  the 
drawing  from  falling1  down,  such  as  cone- 
shaped  cylinders  placed  under  the  comb,  wire 
and  broomstick  supports  from  the  floor  to 
comb,  and  many  other  contrivances.  If  the 
stock  is  really  too  low  and  short  to  make  good 
drawing  it  is  best  to  bring  the  first  and  second 
breakers  together  and  place  a  short  endless 
slat  apron  between  after  the  fashion  of  the 
Blamire  feed.  Sam  Driver. 


Blending  and  Oiling 

Can  you  give  me  the  method  of  blending 
and  oiling  three  lots  of  wool;  viz.,  No.  1  blend; 
500  Ibs.  of  all-wool  Saxony,  Australian  or  No. 
1  Ohio  fleece,  spun  to  10  run;  No.  2  blend,  500 
Ibs.  of  coarse  wool;  No.  3  blend,  Oxford  Mix, 
500  Ibs.,  composed  of  125  Ibs.  black  wool,  125 
Ibs.  white  pulled  wool,  250  Ibs.  black  shoddy? 

Deering   (1068). 


9O  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

Carders  as  well  as  superintendents  have  a 
tendency  to  overlook  the  importance  and  value 
in  this  department  of  having  their  batches 
blended  and  oiled  as  they  should  be.  Too 
much  emphasis  cannot  be  laid  on  the  import- 
ance of  having  the  batches  properly  blended 
and  oiled  to  make  good  carding  and  spinning. 
Carders  should  watch  with  great  interest  this 
part  of  the  operation  for  their  own  benefit,  as 
well  as  for  the  company's. 

PINE   WOOL 

No.  1  blend:  500  Ibs.  all- wool  Saxony,  Aus- 
tralian or  No.  1  Ohio  fleece,  spun  10  run.  We 
will  first  run  it  through  the  wool  duster  and 
then  through  the  burr  picker.  Lay  down  in 
five  layers.  To  each  layer  spread  on  8  qts.  of 
oil  (olive  oil  would  be  best).  Beat  down  each 
layer  with  a  pole.  When  through  blending, 
run  through  the  picker  twice,  feeding  light 
and  mixing  well  in  gauze  room.  It  is  now 
ready  to  sheet  up.  Let  it  lie  four  days  in  the 
sheets  before  going  to  the  cards.  When  ready 
for  the  cards  run  through  picker  once.  Eight 
quarts  of  oil  to  100  Ibs.  No  water. 

COARSE  WOOL 

No.  2  blend:  500  Ibs.  of  coarse  wool  run 
through  duster  and  burr  picker  and  laid  down 
in  five  layers.  To  each  layer  spread  on  4  qts. 
>of  oil  and  10  qts.  of  water.  Pole  each  layer. 


CARDING  AND    SPINNING  QI 

Kun  through  picker  twice.  Four  quarts  of  oil, 
10  qts.  of  water  to  100  Ibs. 

No.  3  blend:  Oxford  mix;  500  Ibs.  batch 
wool  and  shoddy,  125  Ibs.  black  wool,  125  Ibs. 
white  pulled  wool,  250  Ibs.  black  shoddy. 
Fifteen  quarts  of  oil,  20  qts.  water.  This  is 
allowing1  6  qts.  of  oil  to  100  Ibs.  of  wool  and 
8  qts.  of  water  to  100  Ibs.  of  wool;  nothing  for 
shoddy.  If  desirable,  more  oil  and  water  can 
be  added.  Mix  black  and  white  wool  together 
and  run  through  wool  duster  and  burr  picker. 
Run  the  shoddy  through  mixing  picker.  Make 
five  layers  of  wool  and  five  layers  of  shoddy. 
First  layer  of  wool  put  on  3  qts.  of  oil  and  4 
qts.  of  water.  Beat  well  with  pole.  Then  put 
on  layer  of  shoddy;  beat  with  pole.  Next,  a 
layer  of  wool  and  then  a  layer  of  shoddy  alter- 
nately until  finished.  In  feeding,  take  top  to 
bottom  of  pile.  Feed  on  light  and  run  through 
the  picker  three  times,  mixing  well  every  time 

You  will  notice  that  I  do  not  put  any  oil  or 
water  on  the  shoddy,  but  put  it  on  the  wool. 
I  will  give  my  reasons  for  doing  so:  First,  the 
shoddy  has  already  received  enough  oil  dur- 
ing the  process  of  manufacturing.  Second,  it 
will  not  fill  and  gum  the  cylinder  and  doffer 
wire  with  flocks  and  fine  dust.  Third,  the 
cards  will  run  longer  without  stripping. 
Fourth,  it  makes  more  even,  smoother  and 
stronger  yarn,  and  it  cards  and  spins  better. 

The  same  rule  for  the  blending  and   oiling 


92  KINKS    ON    WOOL 

of  this  batch  can  be  applied  to  any  percent- 
age of  wool  and  shoddy.  To  those  using-  emul- 
sions, the  same  percentage  of  oil  and  water 
can  be  used  and  batches  laid  down  the  same 
way,  but  keep  the  emulsions  from  getting  on 
the  shoddy  and  cotton  as  much  as  possible. 

Sam   Driver. 


Preparing  White  Wool  for  Mixtures 

I  would  like  information  on  the  method  of 
preparing  white  wool  for  mixtures. 

W.  W.    (986). 

When  white  wool  is  mixed  with  black  in  the 
raw  state  the  mixture  has  a  better  appearance 
if  the  white  retains  a  part  of  its  natural  yellow 
shade.  Bleached  white  makes  the  mixture 
look  harsh  when  mixed  with  black,  on  account 
of  the  sharp  contrast.  Moreover  bleaching  is 
expensive.  Various  methods  have  been  intro- 
duced to  displace  bleaching  by  removing  a 
portion  of  the  yellow  shade  of  the  fiber, 
among  them  being  the  following: 

1.  For  100  pounds  of  wool,  1  1/2  pounds 
of  oxalic  acid  and  1  pound  of  sulphuric  acid 
66  Be.,  are  dissolved  separately,  then  added  to- 
2,000  pounds  of  water  at  120°  F.  When  start- 
ing the  bath  it  is  advisable  to  add  double  the 
quantities  named.  The  wool  is  then  entered 
and  at  the  end  of  35  or  40  minutes  the  yellow 
shade  will  be  largely  removed.  The  wool  is 
then  taken  out  and  rinsed  several  times. 


CARDING   AND    SPINNING  93 

2.  For  100  pounds  of  wool  1   1/4  pounds  of 
chloride    of   tin   and    1    pound    of    hydrochloric 
acid  are  dissolved  in  water  and  then  added  to 
the  bath,   which  is  heated  to    165°   F.   and   1/4 
to  4/10  of  a  pound  of  sulphate  of  indigo  paste 
added.     The  dyer  must  regulate  the  amount  of 
indigo  to  suit  the   requirements  of   each  case. 
The  wool  is  worked  in  this  bath  for  one  hour. 

3.  For   100  pounds  of  wool  1/4   to   4/10   of 
a    pound    of    Prussian    blue    is    dissolved    with 
four  times  the  quantity  of  oxalic  acid,  forming 
a  concentrated  solution.     This  is  added  to  the 
bath  with  13  to  14  pounds  of  sulphate  of  soda. 
The    wool    is    worked    from    three-quarters    to 
one  hour  at   150°  F. 

4.  For    100   pounds  of  wool   1/4   to    1/2  an 
ounce   of  Formyl  Violet  S   4   B,   1/2   pound  of 
acetic    acid    (increased    if   the    water    contains 
lime)    and    4    pounds   of   sulphate   of   soda   are 
dissolved    in    the    bath    in    which    the    wool    is 
worked  at  160°  F. 

5.  This  is  process  4  with  1  to  1  1/2  ounces 
of  cyanole  extra  added  to  the  bath. 

6.  The   wool  is  worked  in  a  bath  of  bisul- 
phite  of  soda   at   2°   Be.   at   a   temperature   of 
100°  F.,  to  which  is  added  1/3  of  an  ounce  of 
methylene   blue.     The  wool  is  worked  for  one 
liour,  then  taken  out  and  rinsed.     Any  of  the 
above    methods    will    leave    the    wool    in    good 
condition  for  mixes,   and  all   have  the  advan- 
tage of  simplicity.  P.   Hoffman. 


94  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

Density  of  Baled  Wool 

What  is  the  density  of  Bagdad  wool  as  im- 
ported in  bales?  How  does  its  weight  com- 
pare with  that  of  water? 

Douglass    (2081). 

A  cubic  foot  of  water  weighs  1,000  ounces 
or  62  1/2  pounds.  A  bale  of  Bagdad  wool  re- 
cently imported  measured  51  inches  long,  17 
inches  wide  and  17  inches  thick;  cubic  con- 
tents, 14,739  cubic  inches.  The  gross  weight 
was  360  pounds,  equal  to  675  ounces,  or  42 
pounds  per  cubic  foot.  The  weight  of  this 
bale  was  32  1/2  per  cent,  less  than  that  of 
water. 


Core  Yarn 

In  looking  over  the  articles  on  core  yarn 
contained  in  the  March  and  April  issues  it 
occurred  to  me  that  your  readers  would  be 
interested  in  additional  particulars  regarding 
this  process.  The  cotton  core  is  first  wound 
on  the  regular  roping  spools  and  fastened  on 
a  frame  work  at  the  back  of  the  card  just 
above  the  rub  rolls.  A  guide  is  placed  near 
the  doffing  cylinder  with  guide  eyes  set  so  as  to 
deliver  the  core  in  center  of  the  doffer  rings. 
The  core  is  started  between  the  wipe  roll  and 
doffer,  carried  back  to  roping  spool,  and  de- 
livered in  the  center  of  the  doffer  rings. 

When  going  through  the  rub  rolls  the  cov- 
ering is  rolled  around  the  core  in  such  a  man- 


CARDING  AND   SPINNING  95 

ner  that  the  core  is  almost  completely  hidden. 
Two  of  these  threads  are  then  twisted  to- 
gether. An  improved  method  consists  in  de- 
livering two  ends  to  the  doffing  rings  as  near 
the  center  at  possible  and  about  3/16  to  1/4 
inch  apart.  When  rubbed  together  the 
threads  of  the  core  are  embedded  so  well  in 
the  fibers  that  when  twisted  either  on  a  mule 
or  twister  the  covering  will  not  strip.  This 
makes  the  thread  almost  if  not  altogether  like 
all  wool.  This  process  has  eliminated  the 
trouble  of  stripping  which  was  the  result  of 
yarn  made  with  a  single  core. 

There  is  another  process  called  the  "double 
covered"  which  is  made  by  taking  only  one 
spool  from  the  card  instead  of  two.  The  yarn 
coming  from  the  top  condenser  is  taken; 
through  and  under,  and  again  delivered  to  the- 
bottom  roll,  thereby  getting  a  second  covering. 
This  latter  process  is  the  best  for  heavy  stocks, 
as  the  covering  is  more  even  than  that  made 
by  the  single  covered  process.  I  have  seen 
core  yarn  made  and  used  for  both  warp  and 
filing  in  woven  goods  and  which  did  not  strip 
when  used  as  warp. 

The  finishing  or  twisting  of  the  yarn  from 
the  card  is  best  done  on  a  twister,  but  can 
also  be  done  on  a  mule.  It  is  almost  neces- 
sary to  use  a  doubling  twist  scroll,  as  the  or- 
dinary scroll  gives  too  much  twist  for  ordi- 
nary knitting  yarn.  Garhwal. 


g  KINKS   ON   WOOL 

Winding-Tinder  on  Woolen  Mules 

In  regard  to  winding-under  on  woolen 
mules,  I  would  like  to  state  a  few  practical 
points  worked  out  in  my  experience  in  the 
mule  room.  A  high  spot  in  the  tracks  will 
•cause  winding  under.  When  the  mule  backs 
off,  the  faller  locks  and  rests  on  a  stud  con- 
nected with  the  builder-arm,  which  has  a  roll 
connected  on  the  end  that  runs  on  the  builder 
rail.  If  all  the  parts  are  in  perfect  order  so 
that  there  is  no  lost  motion,  the  faller  can 
wind  only  to  a  given  point  up  or  down.  If  the 
backing  off  chain  is  too  long,  allowing  the 
mule  to  unwind  too  much  yarn  when  backing 
off,  the  faller  will  dip  and  cause  the  yarn  to 
wind  under.  The  faller  fingers  may  be  out  of 
line.  Some  of  them  may  be  too  low.  There 
may  be  a  high  place  in  the  track  so  that  the 
carriage  is  forced  up  a  little,  causing  the  faller 
to  dip  just  enough  to  wind  under,  especially  if 
there  is  a  large  shoulder  or  seat  on  the  bottom 
of  the  bobbin.  If  there  is  a  low  place  in  the 
track  it  will  cause  a  more  open  wind  on  the 
bobbin  and  a  longer  build.  The  front  builder 
shoe  may  not  be  set  right,  the  builder  rail 
dwelling  too  long  on  top  of  the  shoe  before 
starting  down  the  incline  of  the  shoe  or 
shaper,  as  it  is  sometimes  called. 

Woolen  Spinner 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Apperly  Feed,    Fine  Ends  on    49 

Balancing  Solutions   24 

Belgium  System  of  Wool  Carding 47 

Bleached   Wool   for   Mixtures 92 

Blending  and   Oiling    89 

Bobbins  and  Cops,   Soft  Noses  on  34,36 

Broken    Drawing    on    Breakers    87 

Burr   Picking  and  Carbonizing    13 

Calculating   Pulleys   and    Speeds    82 

Calculating   Weight   of   Sliver    17 

Carbonizing        13,  29,  46 

Card   Clothing,   Putting   on    80 

Card  Clothing  Wire  for  Fine  and   Coarse  Stock  77 

Card  for  Sample  Mixing   11 

Carding    Shoddy    9 

Causes  of  Uneven  Roping 18,- 30 

Changing   Ring   Doffers    69 

Coarse  Stock,   Changing  to    23 

Core    Yarn    83,  94 

Cotton    Mixes '. 17 

Cylinder,    Speed  of    '.'.' 9 

Density  of  Baled  Wool 94 

Difficulty  with  Rub  Rolls  on   Coarse  Wool   27 

Draft   at   the    Mule    21 

Dressing  for  Rub  Aprons   28 

Drying  after  Carbonizing    14 

Dyeing  and  Carbonizing  in  One  Operation   29 

Emery  Cloth  on  Traverse  Grinder  52 

Equipment  and  Operation  of  Carbonizing  Plant  13 

Equivalent   Numbers    of  Yarn    69 

Even  and  Uneven  Roving   18 

Fancy,    Reclothing    23 

Feed    Rolls    32 

.f  ioers,    Testing    58 

Fine   Ends   of   Feed 49 

Fleeced    Shoddy    66 

Grinding,   Settings  and   Care  of  Cards   52 

Horse   Power  of  a  Waterfall    39 

How  to  Mix  Wool  and   Shoddy   . ...  64 

How  Twits   are  Made    53 

Lumps  in  Yarn 19 

Matching  Mixtures    10 

Mixing  Cotton,    Wool   and   Shoddy    67 


98 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Mixing  Wool   a,nd  Shwlrty 64 

Mules,    Winding-   Under    on    55 

Neppy  Yarn  in   Cotton  Mixes    17 

Number   of  Wool   Spindles   in  World    75 

Numbering  Yarn   69 

Nubs  Forming   on   Card   11 

Nub   Yarns    26,  59 

Oiling   and    Blending    89 

Oiling  Different   Kinds   of   Stock    33 

Operatives  Needed  for  Ten-Set  Mill   42 

Picker,    Setting    46 

Preparing   White   Wool   for    Mixtures    92 

Production    and    Consumption   of   Wool    75 

Production  of  Woolen   Card    41,  71 

Putting  on   Card   Clothing 80 

Quadrant,    Setting    , 35,  36 

Qualitative    Tests    for    Fibers    58 

Kandom    Roping    64 

Ring  Doffers,   Changing   69 

Rowy  Goods    66 

Rub  Rolls,   Setting  and  Care  of  27 

Betting  Cards    for   Nubs    26,  59,  63 

Setting   Mixing    Picker    46 

ISetthi'g    Mule 34,  36,  56 

Setting  Workers  and  Strippers    50 

Shoddy       9,  64 

Size  of  Wire   77 

Sliver,    Weight   of 17 

Soap  and  Oil  Solution   24 

Soft  Noses  on  Bobbins  and  Cops   34,  36 

Speed  and   Size  of  Pulleys  82 

Ten-Set  Mill,   Number  of  Hands   Needed    42 

Testing  for  Soap  or  Alkali  in  Waste  Liquor   3» 

Testing   Grease  Wool  to  Determine  Shrinkage  . .  56 

Trouble  in   Carding   Shoddy    9 

Twist  in  Lumpy  Yarn   20 

Twisted  Rolls  in  Carding   n 

Twits   in   Carding  and   Spinning   53 

Uneven    Roving    , 18,  30 

Variation  Allowed  in  Spinning  Wool  Yarn   74 

Vigogne   Yarn    22 

Waterfall,    Flow   and    Power    39 

White   Wool   for   Mixtures    92 

"Winding  Under   on   Mules    55,  96 

Wire    for    Cards    54 

Wire,   Size  of  77 

Wool,   Density  of  Baled    94 

Wool    Dryer    15 

Wool  Yarn  with  Cotton   Core   83 

Workers    and    Strippers,    Setting    50 

Yarn    Numbering    69 


McBride 

System  of  Carding 

Rotary 

Cloth  Finishing 
Press 


Woonsocket 
Machine  and  Press   Go. 

Woonsocfcet,  R.  I. 


1880 


1912 


have 
been 
used  on 
all 

grades 
and 

kinds  of 
woolen" 
goods 
for 
thirty 
two 
years 

Mills  that  adopted  them  when  first 
introduced  are  using  them  now  —  con- 
clusive proof  of  unusual  merit. 

Let  us  send  a  represen- 
tative to  discuss  with  you 
the  grade  of  BRETON 
OIL  FOR  WOOL  best 
suited  to  your  conditions. 

BORNE,    SCRYMSER   COMPANY 
80  South  Street,  New  York 


Boston 


Fall  River  Philadelphia 

Works,  Claremont,  N.  J. 


Rome  Soap  Mfg.  Co. 

ROME,  N.  Y. 


Olive  Oils 

Red  Oils,  Wool  Oils 

Wool  Scouring  Soaps 

Am.  Potashes  and 

Specialties 


STAMPED  BELOW 


AN  INITIAL  FINE  OF  25  CENTS 

WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.  THE  PENALTY 
WILL  INCREASE  TO  SO  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
DAY  AND  TO  $I.OO  ON  THE  SEVENTH  DAY 
OVERDUE. 


9 


stf 


V 


YA  08276 


271655 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


.  la.  Sargent's  Sons  Corporation 
Graniteville,  Mass. 


